Editor’s Note: This story originally appeared in Volume II of B.H. Magazine. For access to future issues, subscribe here.
Like many of life’s most delicious ironies, Saison Aperitifs was not conceived to be a wildly lucrative enterprise. Instead, it flowed naturally out of the personality of one individual: Dave Verheul, chef-founder at Melbourne’s much-adored Embla.
Verheul, who has always championed provenance in his restaurant, began making vermouth in late 2018 to serve as a drinks pairing alongside his curated dishes. Surprised as he was, diners didn’t hate it.
Then, along came the pandemic — and with it, tonnes of free time to expand on the concept of a seasonal vermouth made from “complex and interesting fruit, along with rare botanicals, grown locally”. And so, Saison Aperitifs came to life.
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“Our first release sold out in under a week,” recalls Verheul. But, as exciting as that was, he soon realised that making vermouth in the restaurant’s kitchen wasn’t going to work long-term. “Thankfully a friendly band of rogue winemakers took me in and let me lease some equipment,” says Verheul. Four years on, Saison still operates within one of their warehouses.
A kind of fortified wine flavoured with botanicals, most drinkers will invariably have encountered vermouth as a modifier: mixed into tipples including, but not limited to, the Martini or Negroni.
In France, Spain, and Italy — which, together, account for more than 60 per cent of global production — vermouth is heavily spiced, with a caramel-driven palate. In contrast, Verheul’s vermouths are roughly half as sweet as their European counterparts. They’re lively, seasonal, and built for enjoyment straight — or, if preferred, over ice.
“Most people think vermouth goes in cocktails or is some ancient thing you fish out of a cupboard at your grandparents’ house,” says Verheul. “Our whole premise is for people to experience aperitifs with a weightiness of palate, which reflect the Australian seasons.”
Whether it’s magnificent magnolia blossoms or a whopping 600 kilograms of pineapple quinces, the ingredients used in Saison vermouth are sourced directly from the person who grows them and are still processed on the pass at Embla. The restaurant’s woodfire oven is instrumental in lending multiple of the brand’s seasonal drops their well-rounded, slightly toasty flavour.
Take, for example, the label’s ever popular Fallen Quinces, which Verheul calls “a robust, but bright and energetic red-style vermouth”. Built on a base wine of Muscat, this expression is left to age over pineapple quinces that have been woodfired for a bitter, gently oxidative dimension.
“The way I make aperitifs aligns in the same way I approach food – clear, vibrant flavours derived from produce that has been grown in the most natural way and by the best people,” explains Verheul.
“My background hasn’t seen me work at Diageo, nor did I create a product after months of analysing what ‘need’ it would fulfil. I just followed my instincts with flavour, as I have done for 25 years in the kitchen.”
Whether reaching for a bottle of Spring Rhubarb or the best-selling Summer Flowers, Saison drinkers can be assured they’ll be getting a “new Australian” lens on traditional fortified vino. Better yet, no “vintage” is the same.
“Making vermouth has definitely ignited a new level of creativity in me,” says Verheul. “I have learnt, and continue to learn, so much when it comes to this industry – from flavour extraction, ageing, trends, marketing, sales, distribution, you name it!”
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Being involved in every single step has been paramount to Verheul. “Since I am personally bootstrapping the business, I wanted to ensure I learnt every part of the process, and not just be the person who has the idea while it’s made by someone else,” he says. “The learning curve has been steep, and trust me, I’ve learnt many things the hard way.”
Initially sold through select Melbourne retailers, Saison is now available nationwide, in addition to five international markets. What started as a hobby for the chef has now turned into a solid business that has no signs of slowing down.
“One of the really wonderful things about the world of bitter drinks is you can create something that is objectively quite niche. But there will be people halfway across the world who seek it out, because it’s so fun and weird,” says Verheul.
“I’ve always had a clear mission, to elevate the experience of how bitter drinks can be enjoyed, and I’m pretty keen to keep sharing that with as many people as I can.”
One day in the not-so-distant future, Verheul hopes to move into his own space and open a cellar door. “But it’s one step at a time,” he adds. “For now, my aim is to be constantly taking one step forward. Making it that little bit better than the ‘vintage’ we made in the previous year.”
We’ll drink to that.
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