Fashion’s most overused buzzword of late is “quiet luxury” — a trend that has exploded into the public consciousness thanks to everyone’s new favourite TV theme: rich people behaving badly. If you can see past the idiocy of the sartorial commentariat describing timelessness as a “new thing”, you’ll find a sensible philosophy of dressing that’s built around classic, well-made, high-quality staples, and within this enduring approach to dressing, a nice watch and a signet ring are the only additions you need to complete any look.
Even a decade ago your average Australian bloke would have been laughed out of the pub for wearing anything other than a wedding band, but as the standards of acceptable dressing have expanded in recent years, so too have options opened up when it comes to men’s jewellery. Today, wearing whatever you want has never been easier, but for those looking to add a touch of flair without adding a bolo tie, a signet ring is just about the best piece of jewellery you can invest in.
A signet ring is a classic statement piece, and a great way of injecting a little character, with the option of a custom signet ring to take personalisation to the next level. From engraving initials or family crests to hard stone inlays and enamelling, the range of signet ring designs is endless and ripe for creative collaboration with your jeweller.
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History Of Signet Rings
Signet rings feel like a traditional object for a man to own, and with good reason. Signet rings have been around since at least 3500 BC, and for thousands of years, were used by kings and pharaohs to sign legal documents. Inverted royal crests or emblems were engraved into rings, to allow the righted image to be applied to any decrees or rules that were passed.
The rulers of Mesopotamia originally used engraved cylindrical seals to sign clay tablets or documents with melted wax, but the signet ring was easier to use and carry around, meaning they soon became an indispensable part of a ruler’s daily garb. In the Middle Ages, anyone important wore a signet ring for the same purpose, which always had the family crest, but was individualised like a signature so it could be known who signed a document. To avoid forgeries, a nobleman’s coat of arms signet ring was either buried with him or destroyed after his death.
Picking Out Your Signet Ring
Given how personal signet rings are, it’s unlikely that you’ll want to start a collection of them. And because you’re probably only going to get one, it’s important you know what you’re doing when you’re getting your signet ring.
To get some advice on the matter from a man who knows signet rings intimately, Fin from the Brisbane-based The Tower jewellery workshop (more on this later) agreed to give some pointers. Not only on the things you should consider before speaking to a jeweller but the things you can expect in the process of buying a signet, especially if opting for the customisation route.
“When discussing custom signet rings with my clients, the first thing I always ask is for a budget to work to, this gives me an idea of where to start,” explains Fin. “The next decision is the materials. The most popular metals are silver, gold or platinum.
“Care should be taken when choosing the shape of the ring, as it’s important to select a style that suits the wearer’s hand. For example, an oval ring suits long, slender fingers whereas a stockier hand is more suited to a round, or rectangular signet.
Sensible advice that applies to both custom and pre-made signet rings…you can’t pick your metal if you don’t know your budget.
“The next question is about the manufacturing techniques of the ring,” says Fin. “While the most common and cost-efficient technique of manufacture is a cast piece, a signet can be hand-forged from a bar of gold. While this makes for a more expensive ring, the resulting ring is a more enduring piece, with a finer finish that can be passed down to the next generation.
Essentially, do you want your ring manufactured from a pre-cast mould, or shaped by hand-hammering a nugget of raw gold? Obviously, pre-cast rings are more affordable than a handcrafted signet, so again it’s important to know your budget and consider the process you’re interested in pursuing.
“Additional design options include gem-setting, enamelling, and engraving. If I’m setting a gemstone, be it a flat, opaque piece of onyx or a faceted gemstone such as sapphire or diamond, there are many options to suit a desired style and budget.
“Likewise, choosing a design to be engraved into a signet adds a personal touch,” Fin suggests. “Hand-engraving a ring is a long, skill-intensive process that makes for a striking and intricate piece, especially if engraved for the purposes of wax sealing.
“As for enamelling, the art is very rare and therefore, expensive. While a single colour or feature in a ring is common, more complex enamel pieces are unique to artists who specialise in the craft, such as Cece Jewellery in London.”
In summary, considering your budget and style are the most important things to think about. As an example, just because you have a larger budget doesn’t necessarily mean you want a gold-coloured ring, in which case platinum or white gold will be best. Likewise, if you’re on a more modest budget but love gold, materials such as vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver) will deliver the look at a fraction of the cost.
Once you’ve done some research, you’ll get a better idea of the kinds of styles and designs that are possible and the ones that resonate with you the most. So without further ado, let’s get into some recommendations about where to look.
The Best Signet Ring Jewellers In The Game
Crooked Howlet Designs
Relatively affordable and intricate in their designs, the Sydney-based team at Crooked Howlet Designs produce either sterling silver or 9ct yellow gold signet ring options with a thematic focus on traditional jewellery mythology. From memento mori rings to tastefully inlaid onyx signet rings, the range of designs is diverse enough to have something for everyone, arriving in any ring size you might need.
While there’s no free shipping Australia-wide, expect a $5 flat rate and free international shipping for orders over $400.
Cece Jewellery
While Cece Jewellery produces a range of different jewellery that includes, pendants, earrings and bracelets, the handcrafted 18ct yellow gold rings are truly world-class when it comes to craftsmanship and design. Based in the UK and working with some of the most skilled enamellers in the world, the level of detail Cece Jewellery is able to achieve in its champlevé enamel work (contrasted with diamonds) is jaw-dropping and well worth its higher price point.
Cece Jewellery signet rings are available from a number of physical stockists (as well as the Cece Jewellery shop online) and they offer free shipping around the world. It’s not always the case in the jewellery game, but you get what you pay for here.
Sarah & Sebastian
The Sydney-based duo at Sarah & Sebastian are some of the most well-respected jewellers in Australia and offer a range that caters predominantly to women, but also features a solid range of signet rings for men. The brand’s designers present a range of simple signet rings in 10ct yellow gold or sterling silver, as well as a line-up of clever double-loop rings that look to be inspired by the Hermès watch strap.
The Tower
With more than a decade and a half of experience creating premium handcrafted jewellery, Fin founded The Tower a few years ago as a platform to create some of Australia’s most exciting jewellery pieces. Signet rings are a core part of the work he does (as an independent one-man show), which feature an impressive range of designs including detailed engravings, glossy enamelling and even set stones such as quartz intaglio. As far as bespoke signet rings go, The Tower is up there with the very best of them.
Miansai
Based in Miami with flagship stores in New York City and Los Angeles, Miansai burst onto the scene with their iconic Anchor bracelets but today produces a wide range of different signet ring styles that can express your personal style through. Inlaid with stones such as jasper, onyx, agate and more, the rings are hewn from sterling silver, 14ct yellow gold or gold vermeil (gold plated silver) to get the gold look for the best price. Available in five different ring size options, you can’t have a massive (or tiny) finger size, but when you consider the value for money you should be able to find your perfect piece.
Castro Smith
Based in London and trained as a painter and printmaker, Castro Smith’s work is immediately recognisable thanks to its expressive and ornate engraving across most of the surface of his rings. Using the traditional “seal engraving” technique in tandem with other European and Japanese engraving techniques, each ring is an individualised work of art emblazoned with naturalistic and historically-inspired motifs, worthy of becoming an heirloom for future generations.
Cleopatra’s Bling
Cleopatra’s Bling is a Melbourne-based jewellery brand with a collection of men’s pieces under the Anthony by Cleopatra collection. Inspired by the traditional jewellery-making workshops of Turkey, much of the stylistic inspiration comes from Middle Eastern and Mediterranean history and is finished to give the impression of a recovered ancient artifact. A favourite within the collection is the Proteggimi Ring — styled as an Italian protection ring — but which reminds me of the vintage cigar band rings made by the likes of Cartier in the 1970s.
Seb Brown
If the traditionally finished signet ring isn’t for you and you’re after a signet that delivers a little more modern personality, the work of Seb Brown could be the thing you’ve been searching for. Founded in Melbourne and well known for his self-described “naïve style” of jewellery design, his signet ring range uses both sterling silver and gold, as well as an array of brilliant and baguette-cut gemstones, and diamonds. Eye-catching and fun in equal measure.
Fairfax & Roberts
With 165 years of history as one of Sydney’s most prominent jewellers, Fairfax & Roberts signet rings are classic, elevated and finely produced. With options in yellow, rose or white gold and several different face shapes, all F&R signet rings are open to commissioned engraving designs. Far from fashion jewellery, this is heirloom stuff.
Cushla Whiting
Last, but certainly not least is the offering of signet rings from Cushla Whiting, which is on the more approachable end of the price range but doesn’t skimp on materials or breadth of designs. With options of hard stone inlays (such as lapis, bloodstone, carnelian and more), initial engraving and precious stones, they also offer more cleanly executed signet rings that fly a little more under the radar. With showrooms in both Melbourne and Sydney, Cushla Whiting is well worth a closer look.
AHW Studio
Based in Sydney and run by a hard-working team of four family members AHW Studio is a home-grown success story that produces a range of silver and yellow gold jewellery, with a solid line-up of signet ring options. Among these includes a number of detailed cast rings celebrating different natural motifs, hard stone inlays and more. If you’re ever in Sydney and have the time to visit the AHW Studio boutique, you won’t be disappointed.
Signet Rings – Frequently Asked Questions
What finger should you wear your signet ring on?
Traditionally, signet rings have been worn on the pinky finger of your non-dominant hand. However, the strictness of these rules has relaxed as we dress more casually, meaning you can wear a signet on any finger today (though we’d advise against thumbs and index fingers).
What are the most traditional designs for a signet ring?
Typically signet rings have featured a family coat of arms or crest. Today, the options are endless.
How much does a good signet ring cost?
It will depend on the materials and manufacturing process, but expect to pay at least $250 for a signet ring. The highest quality and most expensive signet rings can cost more than $5,000.
