Editor’s Note: This spread originally appeared in Volume II of B.H. Magazine. For access to future issues, consider subscribing here.
If I had a dollar from every time some gormless fashion pundit proclaimed the death of the suit, I’d have enough dollars to buy myself… a Daiquiri.
Satire about the price of cocktails aside, I use this anecdote to stress just how enthusiastic mainstream culture has been, this past half-decade, in its repudiation of sartorial clothing. It’s a consensus that, admittedly, carries some weight. Even before the shockwave of the pandemic, the Western world was already witnessing a steady erosion of the coat-and-tie uniform.
As the balance of social and economic capital has shifted towards big tech — where most major players have an aversion to formality — a parallel culture of casual officewear has set in globally. That is, assuming you even still work in an office.
For lovers of perennial, well-made things — be it pleated trousers or a blazer in wool flannel – these developments can sound like the last gasps of a dying art form. Yet even as shoppers continue to embrace clothing that’s as much about conspicuous consumption as it is our society’s performative laidback-ness (the $3,000 cashmere quarter-zip certainly comes to mind), the suit and its many tailored derivations are finding new ways to soldier on.
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To get a clearer picture of where this historic garment is headed in the not-too-distant future, we spoke to 14 movers and shakers in modern menswear: ranging from industry leaders in Australia and Hong Kong, to tailors in Sydney and on Savile Row, and one legendary model who will undoubtedly be familiar to readers of B.H. Magazine.
The sheer range of responses we collected is emblematic of how the lines between each niche in men’s fashion continue to blur. Yet through it all, a handful of persistent themes can be gleaned: comfort, longevity, clothing as a form of personal expression, and the desire to dress well for pleasure.
The takeaway? Classic tailoring still has a role to play in your wardrobe — just maybe not the one you’d expect.
Andrew Byrne, Founder of The Cloakroom
“Tailoring has traditionally been synonymous with formality. But its evolution isn’t about any one detail per se. Rather than a conversation about ‘more casual, less structured’; tailoring has evolved into a philosophy on quality — an avenue and process which allows for self-expression.”
Jack Liang, Co-Founder of Trunk Tailors
Nami Nguyen, Founder of Namiman
JL: “Clients are more educated than ever before. They’re evidently spending the time to do research and are extremely informed when it comes to how and what they commission.
Tailoring needs to be sturdy, versatile, and capable of being worn year-round. Sportcoats are being cut with a looser fit, so as to pair well with shirts and knitwear, as well as denim and chinos.”
NN: “The fusion of different ‘camps’ in fashion – driven by creativity and faster trend cycles – may be ongoing, but there’s always going to be a place for traditional tailoring.
After all, for us, its historic legacy continues to be a trove of inspiration.”
Remy Ghougassian, Founder of REMY
Jake Grantham, Co-Founder of Anglo-Italian
RG: “The knee-jerk impulse to reach for tracksuits — a holdover of Covid — is over. Slowly, a lot of our clients are rediscovering their desire to dress elegantly.
Even casual pieces, like cotton knitwear, look that much better made-to-measure — something that’s at the forefront for us.”
JG: “The remote-work era has decimated the ‘burner’ suit, and in so doing, prompted a re-examination of tailoring — from trad to trendy. That perspective among customers (seeking out quality stuff with a classic lilt) has helped businesses like ours.”
Mark Cho, Co-Founder & Co-Owner, The Armoury // Drake’s
“As this summer has more than proved, the world’s gotten bloody hot. The future of tailoring will be about how to stay sharp in spite of overwhelming heat — that means keener attention paid to full cuts and lighter fabrics.”
Chris Pickings, Co-Founder of Pickings and Parry
Fred Nieddu, Head Cutter & Creative Director of Taillour
CP: “Buy a suit that can be deconstructed. With the right shoes, shirt, and tie, it’s formal enough; but when each component is worn separately, it can still function as part of your casual wardrobe.”
FN: “Believe it or not, we’re embracing the fact that suits are no longer the norm: by making more garments that people wear for pleasure.
This has enabled us to be slightly more adventurous, and focus on crafting something that reflects the client’s character — not adherence to a dress code.”
David Gandy, Model & Founder of David Gandy Wellwear
“Tailoring will always have a place in wardrobes, however, what continues to evolve is the design, functionality, and styling around it. Men should also look to a more utilitarian way of dressing with pieces such as chore jackets that nod towards formal yet functional — a great alternative to a full two-piece suit when worn with the right trousers.”
Patrick Johnson, Founder of P. Johnson
Davy Zhu, Creative Director of Atelier Lavoro
PJ: “Interestingly, I think tailoring has, in the near and not so near past, already evolved to not only tolerate a more casual purpose but to occupy it quite comfortably. And that is because, if you take away the words ‘formal’ and ‘casual’, you’re simply left with degrees of dressing well — or not.”
DZ: “We’re definitely noticing a trend towards more relaxed attire — largely as the workplace and most everyday settings have become increasingly casual.
But, tailored clothing remains important, because it’s still the best way to enhance a man’s physique.”
Buzz Tang, Co-Founder of The Anthology
Oliver Dannefalk & Carl Pers, Co-Founders of Rubato
BT: “Tailoring is evolving to prioritise versatility and comfort. Its usefulness, as an extension of the wearer’s lifestyle, is starting to outshine its traditional perception as ‘work’ clothes.”
OD/CP: “Comfort will take centre stage, and push rules and formality — at least in the way we’ve traditionally known it — out of the question.”
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