Bell & Ross is best known for taking watchmaking inspiration from the cockpits of military aircraft, but the French-founded watch brand has taken a sporty and technically impressive angle for its latest release. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 is the latest freshly refined design to depart the brand’s workshops, boasting a manufacture movement, innovative case design, and new displays on the dial.
If we trace the lineage of the BR-X5 we are immediately met by the BR-05, which was something of a revolution for the brand when it was first announced at the end of 2019. As Bell & Ross’ first step into the enduringly popular but competitive integrated sports watch category, it was met with a positive reception as critics appreciated the links between it and the design language of the original BR-01 collection.
The design of the BR-01 is almost an original manuscript for the way much of the Bell & Ross catalogue looks today, effectively taking the visual codes of cockpit instrument design and translating them into a horological format for the wrist. It’s been the best part of two decades since the BR-01 was launched and the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 showcases the brand’s progression since – both on a technical and aesthetic front.
The first thing you’re struck by when you see the BR-X5 is the new dial layout, which is visually reminiscent of the BR-05 but has the additional complication of a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, and a larger date aperture at 3 o’clock. Bell & Ross has launched the BR-X5 in three different references, one of which is a sober black, another in a more summer sun-loving ice blue, and the final in dark carbon with orange highlights. The dials are a little busier than the clean look of the BR-05 but true to Bell & Ross’ focus on practical functionality, they prioritise legibility with a Super-LumiNova coating.
Arriving at the case of the BR-X5 we have a much more complex and interesting construction, while also being a little larger with a diameter of 41mm and thickness of 12.8mm. Executed in both steel and carbon, the case comprises three parts including the case middle where the movement is housed, and twin upper and lower sections that form the outer case and lugs.
This three-part sandwich construction looks great with hollowed-out case sides and crown guards, the surfaces of which have been finished with a vertical brushing that is consistent with the bezel and the bracelet. In addition to the main case sections, the BR-X5 also features Bell & Ross’s immediately recognisable “circle in a square” bezel, as well as a sapphire crystal caseback that delivers 100m of water resistance and a clear view of the movement that powers the watch.
The movement is another critical element of this latest release from Bell & Ross is the movement that powers it. Bell & Ross has partnered with the Swiss movement manufacturer Kenissi (known for producing movements for the likes of Tudor, Breitling, and Chanel), to create the BR‐CAL.323. Kenissi has a good reputation in the watch industry for manufacturing high-quality movements and with Bell & Ross’s new calibre featuring 70 hours of power reserve, COSC certification (accurate to -4 to +6 seconds a day), and a 5-year warranty, you can understand why.
Across the three different references within the new BR-X5 collection, both the black and ice blue models in stainless steel are available on rubber or an integrated steel bracelet, while the carbon version is only available on a matching orange rubber strap. The integrated steel bracelets are very similar to the bracelets from the BR-05 collection and look great paired with the complex new case design of the BR-X5.
You might think that all luxury rubber watch straps are made equal but I’m here to tell you they aren’t, and of the rubber straps on the market today, Bell & Ross make the most comfortable I’ve ever strapped to my wrist. The new rubber straps for the BR-X5 are also slightly different from the BR-05, with perforations to improve airflow added to these new designs.
All considered, the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 is a smart step from the Paris-based watchmaker, turning up the sportiness that already made its predecessor such a hit. With an intricate new case design, higher quality movement than your entry-level Bell & Ross, and a dial with a bit more going on, there really is a lot to like about this new collection.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 is currently available from Authorised Dealers and online, with the steel references arriving with an RRP of $9,900 on rubber straps and $10,700 on a steel bracelet. The carbon reference is a little more expensive thanks to the challenge of machining such a complex case design in the lightweight material, coming in with an RRP of $17,000.
This article is sponsored by Bell & Ross. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting.
