Editor’s Note: This story originally appeared in Volume III of B.H. Magazine. For access to future issues, subscribe here.
As much as sports watches are arguably the best for everyday life, there’s a case to be made that if you could only own a single timepiece, it should be a classic time-only watch. Elegant, understated, and easy to wear in just about any situation where you aren’t swimming, the best time-only watches are masterpieces in poise and proportion.
So if you’re keen to add an elegant dress watch to your life, we’ve gathered together a list of some of the very best time-only watches that are available today.
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- Raymond Weil Millesime Men’s Automatic Small Seconds
- Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R
- Atelier de Chronométrie AdC31
- Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate
- Grand Seiko SBGW281
- Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen
- Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
- Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual Winding 39mm
- Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
- Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
Raymond Weil Millesime Men’s Automatic Small Seconds
Award-winning for its heritage-inspired design and approachable price point, the Raymond Weil Millesime Men’s Automatic Small Seconds sports a monochromatic silver sector dial that flies under the radar, sized sublimely at 39.5mm.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 35mm
- Case Thickness: 10.25
- Case Material: Steel
- Bezel Material: Steel
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Calf leather
- Dial Colour: Silver
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Movement: RW4251
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R
As the quintessentially Genevan entry point to Patek Philippe dress watches (perfect for Spring Racing), the ref. 6119R is crafted from rose gold with a Clous de Paris-patterned bezel and immaculate dial details. It houses the manually wound calibre 30-255 PS, delivering a power reserve of 65 hours.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 39mm
- Case Thickness: 8.08mm
- Case Material: Rose gold
- Bezel Material: Rose gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Alligator leather with square scales
- Dial Colour: Silvered
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: 30-255 PS
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
Atelier de Chronométrie AdC31
Created by a lesser-known team of independent watchmakers in Barcelona, the AdC31 boasts a handcrafted 18k yellow gold case, black Grand Feu enamel dial, and one of the most beautifully finished movements you’re likely to ever see.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 37mm
- Case Thickness: ~9mm
- Case Material: Yellow gold
- Bezel Material: Yellow gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
- Dial Colour: Black
- Water Resistance: N/A
- Movement: M284
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
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Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate
This Blancpain Villeret personifies high-end watchmaking with an ultra-slim 7.45mm profile on the wrist, a red gold case, and a truly impressive power reserve of 100 hours thanks to the manually wound 11A4B calibre.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 39.7mm
- Case Thickness: 7.45mm
- Case Material: Red gold
- Bezel Material: Red gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Alligator leather
- Dial Colour: Opaline
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: 11A4B
- Power Reserve: 100 hours
Grand Seiko SBGW281
This Grand Seiko SBGW281 draws inspiration from the season where winter transitions to spring – Bantō – featuring an intricately textured dial and golden seconds hand that promises the warmth to come. Owners will enjoy up to 72 hours of power reserve from the hand-wound 9S64 movement.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 37.3mm
- Case Thickness: 11.7mm
- Case Material: Steel
- Bezel Material: Steel
- Bracelet/Strap Material:
- Dial Colour: Champagne
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: 9S64
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen
This creation from the genius of Laurent Ferrier combines a 40mm, 5N red gold case with an enchanting vertically brushed green dial, while being powered by an immaculately finished, automatic-winding calibre with micro-rotor.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 11.1mm
- Case Material: 5N red gold
- Bezel Material: 5N red gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Calf leather with Alcantara lining
- Dial Colour: Deep green
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: FBN229.01
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
L.U.C is the pinnacle of Chopard’s fine watchmaking (winning a GPHG award in 2024), with this 39mm reference crafted from the brand’s proprietary Lucent Steel, and delivering a 65-hour power reserve from the twin-barrel L.U.C 96.09-L calibre.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 39mm
- Case Thickness: 8.92mm
- Case Material: Lucent Steel
- Bezel Material: Lucent Steel
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Calfskin
- Dial Colour: Silver
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: L.U.C 96.09-L
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual Winding 39mm
Perhaps the purest three-hander of them all, the 39mm white gold Patrimony was reborn in 2024 with warm, yellow gold hands and hour markers, and a svelte 7.7mm profile on the wrist.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 39mm
- Case Thickness: 7.72mm
- Case Material: White gold
- Bezel Material: White gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Alligator leather
- Dial Colour: Champagne
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: 1440
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
The revival of Parmigiani Fleurier has been keenly watched by collectors everywhere, and the Toric Petite Seconde, with its hand-grained sand gold dial, is a showcase of what the brand is capable of when it creates without restriction.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 40.6mm
- Case Thickness: 8.8mm
- Case Material: Sand gold
- Bezel Material: Sand gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Alligator leather
- Dial Colour: Sand gold
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: PF780
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
Omega’s Trésor collection (the name comes from the French word for treasure) continues a legacy first established in 1949. Knowing exactly when to replenish the manually-wound calibre 8935 adds to the charm of the 10.07mm, 18k yellow gold case.
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 10.7mm
- Case Material: Yellow gold
- Bezel Material: Yellow gold
- Bracelet/Strap Material: Alligator leather
- Dial Colour: Silver
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement: OMEGA 8935
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
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