Four days and over a dozen articles later, we’ve come to the end of yet another edition of Watches & Wonders. Frequently described as the ‘Comic-Con meets Super Bowl‘ of luxury timepieces, the 2024 edition was once again held in the sprawling confines of Geneva’s Palexpo.
Bringing together 54 exhibitors, who collectively embody a bulk of the Swiss watch industry, it goes without saying that there were a ton of new releases to see.
From these, the BH editorial team has whittled down our favourite of the watches we saw at the show. Ranging from 5-figure dress watches to certified bangers from the Rolex Group of brands (who else?) check our full list out below.
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Highlights From Watches & Wonders 2024
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
While we’ve seen highly complicated Monaco chronographs from TAG Heuer before, we’ve never seen one quite like this. The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph embodies a move toward the pointer end of haute horlogerie, while remaining true to the La Chaux-de-Fonds brand’s sporty, robust DNA.
The Monaco was already one of the most recognisable racing chronographs in history, but this year TAG Heuer has taken things to an entirely new level by introducing a rattrapante chronograph and redesigning several details of the iconic square case. The case measures 41mm in diameter and is constructed from grade five titanium, allowing the entire watch to tip the scales at a featherweight 85 grams.
You’ll notice a third chronograph pusher on the side of the case to activate the split-seconds mechanism, which is kept visually legible thanks to the differently coloured twin hands. The rear of the case features an exhibition caseback made using a single bevelled piece of sapphire crystal, secured with a screw at each corner. These pass all the way through the watch and also secure the crystal over the skeletonised dial.
With a pair of coloured bridges offering architectural support to the white chronograph registers, the futuristic-looking dial puts the “AG” (avant-garde) in the TAG acronym. Supremely comfortable on the wrist and a delight to actuate thanks to its silky smooth TH81-00 movement, this Monaco is unlike anything that’s come before it. – Nick Kenyon
IWC Portugieser Chronograph ‘Horizon Blue’
Part of IWC’s revamped Portugieser collection (which we gained exclusive pre-show access to through the pages of B.H. Magazine Vol I), this ‘Horizon Blue’ chronograph is the best of a bang-on bunch.
The new colourway is one of three liveries that have been added to the 41mm Portugieser chrono line-up – inspired, as with the ‘Dune’ and ‘Obsidian’ shades, by the sun’s progression along the horizon.
In conjunction with a “more elaborate execution” of the dial (i.e. now featuring lacquer coating and radially engraved sub-dials), what IWC has been able to achieve with this colourway underscores the importance of picking a shade that’s appropriately reactive to light and shadow.
Sure, it’s still the tried-and-true calibre 69355 ticking away under the surface – equipped with a perfectly solid 30-minute chronograph – but when a redesign is this effective, you really are at pains to notice. – Randy Lai
Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco” Edition
There were several compelling releases from Cartier in 2024 (including a Santos Dumont that tells the time backwards), however, our favourite new timepiece from the French-founded watchmaker was a particularly special Tank Américaine.
Crafted from solid platinum in Cartier’s “large” size (44.4mm in length; 24.4mm in width; and 8.6mm in thickness), its polished precious metal profile frames a brilliant dial.
With explicit Art Deco references at the core of the dial’s design, its sector format has a coppery salmon base and a radially brushed rectangular ring that draws the eye inwards. Contrasting the warm tones of the dial are a set of heat-blued sword hands, while the crown of the watch also makes a strong visual statement with the iconic ruby cabochon.
On the wrist, it tends to feel quite substantial (most Tank Américaines do), especially with the added heft of the platinum case. However, rather than feeling heavy or ungainly, its solid presence on the wrist feels appropriate for the perfectly restrained proportions of the dial.
While the curved flanks of the Américaine can sometimes be polarising, this latest reference is one of the most interesting and thoughtfully executed in years. Paired with a burgundy leather strap (on a matching platinum folding clasp) Cartier knocked this one out of the park. – Nick Kenyon
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
While the chatter at the Chopard booth for Watches & Wonders 2024 was filled mostly with mentions of its ‘Forest Green’ XPS and now-in-Lucent-steel Qualité Fleurier, the piece that I kept coming back to was this Quattro Spirit 25 – another complicated reference pulled from the brand’s high-end L.U.C roster.
Technically a variation on an existing limited edition (first released by Chopard in 2021) this new Quattro Spirit is similarly outfitted with a jumping hour mechanism and enamel dial – this time in black. A 40mm x 10.3mm case in white gold completes the picture.
Admittedly, I was already a fan of the original Quattro Spirit 25; yet here – in much the same vein as the revamped Portugieser collection – the choice to pair black enamel and white metal is enough to elevate the design to a new plane of desirability. – Randy Lai
Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar
One of our favourite releases from Baume & Mercier in 2023 was the salmon-dial Riviera Perpetual Calendar. After enjoying huge success with that release, the watchmaker returns with another edition.
While last year’s reference was slightly more traditional, in 2024 Baume & Mercer opted for a more contemporary approach on the wrist with a sleek grey dial that works well with the brushed steel case. Contrasting the grey are rose gold-tone hands and hour markers that bring a touch of warmth to what could otherwise be a chilly dial.
It’s got a 40mm steel case that feels very comfortable on the wrist, and is far from too thick at just 11.84mm from sapphire crystal to sapphire crystal. If you’ve ever worn the integrated Riviera bracelet, you’ll know it fits the contours of your wrist nicely; while the exhibition caseback promises 50m of water resistance.
Powered by the impressive 120-hour power reserve Baumatic BM13-1975AC2 movement, this Riviera Perpetual Calendar offers a compelling value proposition (relatively speaking). If you’re keen on getting one on your wrist, you’ll need to move quickly, as it’s a limited edition of just 50 pieces. – Nick Kenyon
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor had no shortage of intriguing releases, but the one which proved the most pulse-quickening was the Black Bay 58 GMT. If you’re a fan of slightly more modestly sized and heritage-inspired watches, this is one that will get the blood pumping.
It has a 39mm stainless steel case (complemented by a relatively slender thickness of 12.8mm) and arrives on a matching brushed steel bracelet that works a treat with the watch itself. The matte black dial boasts the Tudor snowflake hands we know and love, but it’s the bezel that deserves the spotlight as – a black and red beauty, with gilt 24-hour scale, that feels properly vintage.
Tudor fans around the world have been clamouring for a watch like this for years: heritage-inspired; a smaller case; and details that I’d personally consider closer to perfection. There’s a lot to love here. – Nick Kenyon
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding 39mm
In an industry full of super-complications and movements thinner than a 10 cent coin, Vacheron doesn’t get enough credit for how unrelenting it continues to be in its pursuit of the perfect time-only dress watch.
This year, in a move that echoed its Watches & Wonders 2023 presentation, the Genevan Maison announced two 39mm additions to the Patrimony collection – a product range all about “stylistic pureness” and a “deliberately minimalist” approach.
Arriving as a happy medium between the 37mm and 41mm sizes previously offered by Vacheron, the new Patrimony makes the challenge of minimalist watch design look easy – an impressive feat indeed.
For yours truly, the white gold has proven particularly appealing: owing to its concave dial and fine array of shaped indices. The lack of visible complication is also more than made up for by this model’s ‘old silver-tone’ finish – the ultimate in ‘less is more’ aesthetics. – Randy Lai
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
Watch collectors of a certain age are bound to remember the ‘Toric’: aka the first watch to ever be released by Michel Parmigiani, and subsequently, a favourite of low-key-flex types such as Keanu Reeves and King Charles III.
Famously overengineered, and visibly inspired by Parmigiani’s own love for ancient Greek architecture; this year, the Toric collection has been given something of a contemporary revival – consisting of two ‘Petite Seconde’ models and a limited edition chronograph.
Going forward, the former will fulfil the role of Parmigiani’s [decidedly not] ‘entry-level’ dress watch. Much like the aforementioned Patrimony releases, those 40mm bad boys are packed with numerous fine-tooth details that enrich the watch’s style without adding unnecessary clutter.
Fortunately, many of the aesthetic codes used in those three-handers are preserved in the Toric rattrapante – a split-second chronograph capable of measuring two events simultaneously. Surprisingly, the classic tri-compax layout (so often favoured on racing watches like the Rolex Daytona) works a treat here: in large part because the brand has kept every other detail on the dial as refined as possible.
However, that all changes once you flip the watch over and come to grips with the PF361 – Parmigiani’s first true in-house chronograph (also in service with the Tonda collection). Not to put too fine a point on it, but the movement architecture here is spectacular: reminiscent of an Arabesque fashioned from dozens of solid gold tendrils, studded with black-polished screws and chatons. Bellissimo. – Randy Lai
Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Dress Watches
Brilliant Hard Titanium has again been put to good use by the team at Grand Seiko, with the launch of the SLGW002 and SLGW003; both measuring 38.6mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness. While the case is a lightweight delight, it’s the movement that’s the star of the show – an all-new calibre from the Japanese watchmaker, debuting at Watches & Wonders.
The 9SA4 is a manually wound Hi-Beat calibre that ticks away at 36,000vph and is the first movement of its kind to be produced by Grand Seiko in half a century. Featuring finely finished bridges with striping that’s as consistent in grain as it is in sharpness, two highlights you can see while inspecting the caseback are the power reserve indicator and a click-spring shaped like the Wagtail birds native to Morioka (home of Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi).
If you ever wanted evidence of the lengths Grand Seiko can go to to ensure an unrivalled wearer experience, the head of the Wagtail bird slides up and down to ensure a perfectly smooth feeling while being wound. Special stuff indeed.
Turning the watch back around to the dial, Grand Seiko once again takes inspiration from the white birch trees surrounding its watchmaking workshops for the surface pattern. Compared with the SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” references from a few years back, the new SLGW002 and SLGW003 encourage a closer look thanks to their subtler patterning. – Nick Kenyon
Now that you know which releases from Watches & Wonders 2024 were our favourites, be sure to check out all of our comprehensive brand-specific coverage from the week that was:
