Cartierโ€™s Revived Pebble Dress Watch Is A Stoneโ€™s Throw From The Original
โ€” 18 October 2022

Cartierโ€™s Revived Pebble Dress Watch Is A Stoneโ€™s Throw From The Original

โ€” 18 October 2022
Randy Lai
WORDS BY
Randy Lai

Known colloquially among watch obsessives as โ€œthe Baseball,โ€ the Pebble has officially been revived (sort of) by Cartier this year to mark the occasion of the vintage designโ€™s 50th birthday. In line with previous releases from the storied French luxury house โ€“ such as the staggeringly beautiful, notoriously unattainable Tank Cintrรฉe 100th Anniversary โ€“ the Pebble has been re-envisioned as a 150-piece limited edition.

Tellingly, little to no information about this contemporary reissue can be gleaned from Cartierโ€™s various regional websites; implying โ€“ as is now so often the case โ€“ that the Pebble will be reserved for the brandโ€™s VIP clientele and growing stable of celebrity ambassadors.

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That lack of widespread attainability doesnโ€™t obviate the importance of this latest release though. Unlike some of Cartierโ€™s more avant-garde shape watches, the Pebble is a relatively minimal design. In many ways, it emblematises what Cartier does best: working with multiple, layered geometries to create an object that is simplistic on paper, yet infinitely more romantic in the metal.

In sharp contrast to a number of other Richemont-backed brands, Cartier has opted (intelligently) to duplicate the original Pebbleโ€™s design. The reissue sports the same classically proportioned 36mm case of its 70s-era forebear, and the interplay between recessed square dial and surrounding โ€œpebbleโ€ is in keeping โ€“ almost identically โ€“ with the measurements of the original.

Cartier Pebble

The dial itself consummately illustrates what makes Cartier such a revered name in the arena of precious metal dress watches. In particular, the Roman numerals that mark the 12; 3; 6; and 9 position are convex, gently filling the negative space that results from this unique, multi-shape design.

To meet the technical demands imposed on its watchmakers by the Pebbleโ€™s aesthetic, Cartier turned to watch and jewellery stablemate Piaget; with the latter teeing up the calibre 430P โ€“ an ultra-thin, manually-wound movement that complements this watchโ€™s unique form factor.

Despite this objective simplicity, the new Pebble has attracted a modicum of criticism โ€“ mostly centering on its five-figure price tag. That may largely be chalked up to historical reasons: concerning the rarity and heritage of the original Cartier London timepieces.

Image credit: Phillips

First launched by Cartier London in 1972 โ€“ when the companyโ€™s French, British, and American outposts operated independently of one another โ€“ period-accurate Pebbles have been steadily gaining traction on the auction circuit these past two years. Last May, an original example hammered at Phillips in Geneva for CHF$400,000 (AU$637,944), leading many to wonder whether this would convince Cartier to revive the style and in so doing, capitalise on renewed public interest.

Thereโ€™s also the question of scarcity: as the period-correct Pebbles were (to the best of our knowledge) only made in a limited edition of six pieces, Cartier is able to pitch an MSRP that reflects this dearth of supply. Mind you, to the sort of fellow who cracks the top 10% of Cartierโ€™s CRM, $60,000 give or take, is probably a small price to pay for a slice of history.

Cartier Pebble

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Randy Lai
WORDS by
Following 6 years in the trenches covering consumer luxury across East Asia, Randy joins Boss Hunting as the team's Commercial Editor. His work has been featured in A Collected Man, M.J. Bale, Soho Home, and the BurdaLuxury portfolio of lifestyle media titles. An ardent watch enthusiast, boozehound and sometimes-menswear dork, drop Randy a line at [email protected].

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