Grand Seiko is a watchmaker not only known for its intricately finished dials and impressive level of craftsmanship but also for its technical sophistication and innovative approach to movement development. For two of the highlights from the Grand Seiko collection in 2023, both skillsets are on full display with a dress watch boasting an eye-catching engraved case and dial, as well as the brand’s first fully mechanical chronograph watch.
Highlights From The 2023 Grand Seiko Collection
Grand Seiko “Tentagraph” SLGC001
Grand Seiko has long shown off its talents for producing chronograph movements within its Spring Drive collection (which features a movement regulated with a quartz crystal but isn’t fully quartz powered), but this year is the first time we’ve seen an entirely mechanical chronograph released by the Japanese watchmaker. Called the Grand Seiko “Tentagraph” SLGC001 (Tentagraph is a portmanteau of Ten ticks a second, Three-day power reserve, and Automatic Chronograph), it certainly isn’t a petite dress watch, but features a lightweight and wearable high-intensity titanium case (and bracelet) that measures 43.2mm in diameter and a solid 15.3mm thick.
Before we get to the new movement inside, it’s worth pausing to appreciate its delicately flecked dark blue dial, inspired by the nearby Mt. Iwate to the Grand Seiko watchmaking studio and surrounding ceramic bezel, punctuated only by the sporty hands and hour markers. The new mechanical chronograph movement from Grand Seiko is the 9SC5 calibre and has been adapted from a base movement in the 9SA5 high-beat calibre, arriving with a best-in-class 72 hours of power reserve with the chronograph running and has been tested for no less than 20 days to guarantee the accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day.
It’s an exciting new release from Grand Seiko and one that is sure to be a sign of more mechanical chronographs to be launched in years to come. Price: $20,500 (June release).
Grand Seiko SBGZ009
On the artistic side of Grand Seiko’s craftsmanship is the Grand Seiko SBGZ009, which arrives with a stunning hand-engraved platinum 950 case and dial with a matching pattern. Truly a watchmaking work of art, the slender case measures 38.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness and is mirror polished before being engraved entirely by the craftspeople at Grand Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studio.
The case isn’t the only work of art, however, with the movement powering the SBGZ009 being the expertly finished manually wound spring-drive movement 9R02, which enjoys an 84-hour power reserve and is accurate to +/- 1 second per day. It isn’t the most affordable watch you’ll see leave the Grand Seiko factory, but as a limited edition of just 50 pieces, if you’re lucky enough to buy one it’ll probably be the only one you’ll ever see. Price: $117,950
