The 17 Best Grand Seiko Watches Right Now

A brand that needs no introduction even if you’re only remotely partial to perusing the digital pages of Boss Hunting, it’s no exaggeration to say that everybody in our office is a big, big fan of Grand Seiko.

Originally the moniker given to a small run of high-end dress watches, manufactured by Seiko for the Japanese domestic market in 1960; over the last decade, Grand Seiko has spun off into its own wildly popular phenomenon – across Asia, North America, and of course, Australia.

At first regarded as a ‘value-for-money’ proposition (with a cult following amongst Japanophiles and watch collectors obsessed with microcosmic details), over the past few years Grand Seiko has undergone something of a rapid transformation into a full-fledged luxury brand.

RELATED: Grand Seiko Celebrates The Spring Drive With Its 2024 Collection

In Australia, the opening of the first dedicated Grand Seiko boutique back in 2019 signalled the brand’s up-market ambitions; and while it’s assuredly true that prices are now creeping up on the Swiss competition, I’d be the first to argue that — broadly speaking — these adjustments offer a fairer, more accurate reflection of the quality being invested in the average mechanical Grand Seiko watches fitted on integrated bracelets.

Notably, Grand Seiko’s vestigial connection to its parent company of the same name does mean there sometimes feels like an overwhelming number of models to choose from. The brand is doing a fine job of consolidating this approach as time goes on; but meanwhile, we thought we’d provide you with a curated list* of our favourite Grand Seiko watches you can buy right now.

Though not all of them have necessarily been released this year; we think the following strike a robust balance between aspiration and affordability. Subarashii!

*Editor’s Note: The inclusions in this Buyer’s Guide have been independently selected by and, where available, handled for an extended duration by James Want, Nick Kenyon, and Randy Lai.

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BH Approved: The Best Grand Seiko Watch Overall That You Can Buy In Australia

Given just how much ferocious competition there is within the Grand Seiko offering for the accolade of ‘best overall watch’, we acknowledge the SBGJ255 (a.k.a. ‘the 44GS 55th Anniversary’) might seem like an unusual choice for top billing — especially when one considers it’s also a limited edition (1,200 pieces globally).

But unlike the red-hot, perpetually sold-out ‘White Birch’ or the technically groundbreaking ‘Kodo’ – both of which are *sigh of relief* on our list — this Heritage collection release manages to capture the spirit of Grand Seiko through time — honouring the company’s past, present…and perhaps even it’s future.

In brief: the basic layout and form language derives largely from the SBGJ005 – a green-dialled GMT with which Grand Seiko won big at the 2014 GPHG Awards – drawing a consistent through-line with the brand’s recent history.

That said, this release also tidies up its own near-decade-old design language; with the 44GS-inspired case now imagined in titanium — a decidedly contemporary metal — alongside a very subtle dial treatment that evokes the sensation of neatly raked snow.

Oh, and there’s a GMT: more than enough firepower for a ‘daily wearer’.

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The Best Grand Seiko Watches To Add To Your Collection Right Now

Grand Seiko SBGN011 GMT

A stellar introduction to the brand that most enthusiasts remember Grand Seiko for, the SBGN011 offers obvious (not to mention formidable) competition for best-selling tool watches like the Rolex Explorer II and Omega Seamaster.

Being a part of the oh-so-classic Heritage collection, buyers can expect a strong, angular case style and excellent decorative finishing on the dial across the board.

Rounding out the time-and-date functionality is a GMT powered by Grand Seiko’s high-precision 9F quartz movement — meaning that the watch is accurate to within staggering tolerances of ±10 seconds per year (with a battery replacement every three years).

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Grand Seiko SBGM245 GMT

There’s something extremely tactical about a brushed steel bezel and that’s exactly what we’ve gotten with this Grand Seiko SBGM245 — outfitted with a GMT complication and sunburst blue dial.

Pretty much the essence of adventure, it’s capable of tracking two timezones simultaneously and is water-resistant to the not-inconsiderable depth of 200m.

Plus, for anyone not convinced by Grand Seiko’s high-performing quartz GMT watches, this automatic reference powered by the 9S66 should more than satisfy: with 72 hours of power reserve and impressive accuracy. A real ‘go anywhere, do anything’ set-up if ever we’ve seen one.

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Grand Seiko “Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition” SBGZ005

Only the most remarkable Grand Seiko creations are considered for inclusion in the aptly named “Masterpiece Collection” — such as this SBGZ005.

Inspired by the first timepieces Grand Seiko ever released, this specific reference commemorates the 160th anniversary of Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori’s birth. Crafted by some of Japan’s finest watchmakers at the Micro-Artist Studio, the case is hewn from platinum before being Zaratsu polished to a perfect, distortion-free finish.

Beneath the frosty white dial, the SBGZ005 is powered by the caliber 9R02, which is a manually wound Spring Drive movement boasting 84 hours of power reserve. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, ‘masterpiece’ is indeed the right choice of description.

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Grand Seiko SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’

In many ways, the watch that propelled Grand Seiko to stratospheric popularity in the West, the SBGA211 – better known by its ‘Snowflake’ moniker — remains a classic jumping-off point for those who wish to understand what all the fuss is about over high-end Japanese watchmaking.

Sporting versatile titanium cases, Grand Seiko’s groundbreaking mechano-quartz Spring Drive movements, and a dial treatment so vivid in its recreation of the natural world that certain collectors have taken to calling it “an icon” of Japanese design; these Snowflake watches allow wearers to really enjoy the best of everything – still for less than what you’ll pay for an entry-level Speedy.

As we’re so fond of saying here at Boss Hunting HQ: it doesn’t get any better than that, champion.

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Grand Seiko SBGE257 GMT

A relatively recent release from inside the past few years, this stainless steel SBGE257 is part of Grand Seiko’s performance-led Sport collection: combining the familiar design cues of a watch like the Rolex Submariner with cutting-edge material and mechanical technology.

For buyers keen to stick to a 4-figure budget, there’s an almost embarrassing amount of value to be had here: including a ceramic bezel, gradient dial, GMT functionality and, of course, Spring Drive.

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Grand Seiko SBGA413 ‘Shunbun’

Initially released as part of the US-focused ‘Seasons’ collection, the ‘Shunbun’ – which celebrates springtime and the arrival of the first cherry blossoms in Japan — is handily my favourite watch to grace our list.

Powered by the sweeping calibre 9R65, the Shunbun takes the meditative persona of earlier Spring Drive watches (e.g. the Snowflake) and hones that with tightrope precision.

Whilst not quite the dramatic aesthetic rethink that is broadly evident across the ‘Evolution 9’ collection, it’s clear that every detail in this simple time-and-date model has been unpacked and carefully

This version of Grand Seiko’s influential 62GS case design is the brand’s best yet: boasting thinness and wearability in equal measure, along with a sophisticated box-shape crystal that draws your eye to the dial work — unequivocally, as exquisite as what you’ll find in watches at 4-5 times the price.

RELATED: 5 Vintage Rolex Watches Worth Your Time And Investment

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Grand Seiko SBGY011 ‘Asaborake’

Given the centrality of Spring Drive movements to Grand Seiko’s overarching identity, it seems strange that historically there hasn’t been a manually-wound iteration of this technology — until recently.

Among a slew of other new Grand Seiko watches unveiled in 2022, the SBGY11 (also known as the Asaborake) bears the distinction of being the first manual Spring Drive model in regular production. As highlighted throughout this ‘best of’ list previously: the Asaborake evinces a number of visual and mechanical characteristics that are specialties at Grand Seiko.

These include a striking textured dial (in this case, finished with a tight cross-hatch motif); loads of polished, distortion-free surfaces; and the calibre 9R31 — a simplified version of the calibre 9R02 that is standard across the ‘Masterpiece’ collection and a beautiful mechanical exercise in its own right.

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Grand Seiko SBGK009

Neither as critically revered as the ‘Masterpiece’ collection, nor as commercially popular as the ‘Heritage’ pieces; the watches of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection are — to my mind, at least — some of the most aesthetically sophisticated coming out of Japan.

One textbook example I always turn to whilst trying to stress that point is the SBGK009: the latest in a series of ‘thin dress’ watches unveiled outside of Japan in 2019. Broadly, a fresh design paradigm for Grand Seiko — inspired by ideas of light, living organisms and the image of a wind-filled sail — it’s no exaggeration to say that these wear very differently from their often flat and two-dimensional Swiss counterparts.

Kiyotaka Sakai — the mastermind behind this burgeoning new subset of Grand Seiko watches — achieves this dynamic effect with a number of deft, but cumulatively palpable details. The surface of the dial is convex in places; each hour index curve flares out gently toward the edge; and the colour treatment is properly graduated — serving up shades of charcoal or inky black depending on where you’re wearing the watch and how you’ve angled your wrist.

Plus, the 9-link bracelet? Let’s just say I wish there was more of that fearless originality in the Heritage line.

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Grand Seiko SBGH291 Diver’s Watch

A professional ‘diver’s watch’ — in the most serious sense of that phrase — the SBGH291 is the definitive answer at Grand Seiko to Swiss flagships such as the Seamaster 300M Professional or Fifty Fathoms.

Sharing the same basic spec sheet as the SBGH289 (also released in 2021), this diver has the added advantage of — at least in our opinion — being the more handsome of the two.

The gold-tone ‘GS’ logo and signature work well alongside the bronzed sheen of the high-intensity titanium case; and if there was any lingering doubt about this being a bona fide dive watch, the 200m depth rating and adjustable bracelet (designed to be worn over a wetsuit) ought to put that to rest.

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Grand Seiko SLGH005 ‘White Birch’

A watch that I think eloquently expresses the future of Grand Seiko’s creative direction, the SLGH005 — better known by Seiko fans as the ‘White Birch’ — is probably the most popular and sought-after Heritage collection reference we’ve chosen to include.

One of the forerunners of the new ‘Evo 9’ design language (think wide lugs, fluted indexes, and an emphasis on extra-thin watchmaking) the White Birch’s signature characteristic – again, par for the course, for Grand Seiko – is its shirakaba dial, stamped with an irregular arboreal pattern mirroring the wood grain of the trees that are native to GS’ Shizukuishi Studio.

More than dashing looks though, the White Birch represents an important leap forward on the technical front: equipped with the self-winding 9SA5 movement that promises to be an important testbed for mechanical movements at Grand Seiko going forward. Plenty of innovation — and a damn sight prettier than the 9S86 that was the bedrock of a generation.

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Grand Seiko SBGW299

A heritage-inspired timepiece that can trace its roots back to 1967 with the debut of the legendary 44GS case shape, the SBGW299 is a contemporary reimagining of Grand Seiko at its best.

The facets on the 36mm case are undeniably eye-catching, while the textured blue dial has been kept cleanly symmetrical (translation: without a date window). Arriving on a matching stainless steel bracelet, it’s a touch sportier than a lot of the other models on this list, but with 72 hours of reserve power we’re not complaining.

If you’re hunting for a modern Grand Seiko with a touch of vintage charm, the SBGW299 could well be the answer.

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Grand Seiko SLGC001 ‘Tentagraph’

Best known for being the first fully mechanical in-house chronograph developed at Grand Seiko, the ‘Tentagraph’ gets its name from four of the watch’s signature features: namely, a frequency of TEN beats per second; a Three-day power reserve; Automatic winding; and the addition of the chronoGRAPH complication.

Big, burly and made in the tradition of no-holds-barred luxury chronographs like the Royal Oak Offshore (at least to our minds) the Tentagraph feels a lot like the Grand Seiko sports models of the early 2000s — in a good way.

Here, for the first time, the ‘Evo 9’ design language is utilised in an automatic watch outfitted with a column wheel chronograph, and while reasonable minds differ on whether the case needs to be as substantial as it is (15.3mm in thickness) nobody can accuse Grand Seiko of skimping on the details.

Between the river-inspired architecture of the 9SC5 movement and the dial’s textured blue finish — the signature ‘Mt. Iwate’ pattern — this offers the lion’s share of what collectors find most appealing about Grand Seiko — now in a very sporty package.

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Grand Seiko SBGE285

The Grand Seiko SBGE285 was released relatively recently — as a part of the brand’s growing ‘Evolution 9’ line. Combining the everyday wearability of a titanium case and bracelet with the functionality of a Spring Drive-powered GMT movement, its textured dial is one of Grand Seiko’s best in the last fewyears, with a surface inspired by the “morning mist that envelops the mountains of Nagano”.

The case wears nicely thanks to the addition of titanium, while the bezel and crown (both in the same material) lend an unmistakable robustness to the wrist.

It’s sporty but refined: cementing it as the quintessential adventure watch from Grand Seiko.

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Grand Seiko SBGZ009 ‘Majestic White Birch’

Built around the hand-finished 9R02 movement that is frequently likened to Philippe Dufour’s ‘Simplicity’, the ‘Majestic White Birch’ is the third release from Grand Seiko to incorporate Spring Drive technology and a completely hand-engraved case. (Yes, you read that last bit correctly.)

Devastatingly collectible thanks to its combination of ‘special dial’, meticulous metal-working and rarity (only 50 pieces were produced globally) we feel comfortable characterising this new release as less of a ‘luxury watch’ and more like a piece of wearable art.

Even before one gets to the question of pricing, the SBGZ009’s evocation of white birch forests at the foot of the Yatsugatake Mountain range will necessarily be polarising.

As part of the ultra-high-end ‘Masterpiece’ collection, you sort of expect that: given that the appeal of such releases is so intrinsically different to that of the models at the affordable end of the spectrum. But kudos to Grand Seiko for offering both.

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Grand Seiko SLGT005 ‘Daybreak’ Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

The follow-up to the most high-profile release Grand Seiko has put out in a decade, the SLGT005, better known by its Japanese sobriquet Kodo (‘heartbeat’), represents an important milestone for the Seiko family; not to mention — an enviable display of horological prowess in its own right.

In overly crude terms: a skeletonised watch combining a tourbillon and remontoire constant force mechanism, the Kodo’s crowning achievement is that it adds a classical dimension to Grand Seiko’s famously technologic quest for accuracy.

Imagined on the same axis — a shared plane of existence, if you will — the Kodo’s tourbillon and constant force mechanism work symbiotically; tackling all the obstacles to accurate real-world timekeeping that, separately, it would be virtually impossible to.

The fact that the Kodo is given over almost entirely to the pursuit of chronometry is also borne out visually: the first fully open-worked watch offered by Grand Seiko (built on much of the expertise of the ‘meister’ watchmakers at Credor) its 9STI movement is a veritable city-under-glass in the metal — evoking comparisons with eyewateringly expensive Swiss counterparts such as Greubel Forsey and F.P. Journe.

Putting questions like “How do you read the time?” and “Who is this for?” aside, it’s pivotal to recognise how the Kodo epitomises Grand Seiko’s dynamic approach to watchmaking in the 21st century. Whatever comes next, odds are it’ll be made possible by the technical breakthroughs and sheer audacity of the Kodo project.

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