In addition to its work in the straight-up luxury watchmaking space, Bucherer has carved out a well-defined niche as a specialist in all things blue. The popular primary shade has been a theme since 2016, with Bucherer initially applying it to a collection of eight luxury timepieces – all designed in collaboration with some seriously heavyweight brands.
Fast forward to 2022, and Lucerne’s most iconic watch & jewellery retailer has once again unveiled a trio of smurf-tinged limited editions: including Girard Perregaux’s mechanically elaborate Three Flying Bridges timepiece and a car-shaped table clock by L’Epée 1839 (a brand destined to go down in infamy for its starring role in the Hodinkee travel clock debacle).
For us here at the BH office though, the undisputed bright spot in this latest raft of colour-themed releases is – surprise, surprise – by H. Moser & Cie, a darling of the high-end indie watchmaking scene that has gone from strength to strength these last few years.
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H. Moser’s track record in the collaborative space has been bang-on of late. Following team-ups with The Armoury and Californian streetwear label, UNDEFEATED, the brand has returned to comparatively orthodox ground – incorporating Bucherer’s signature shade of lustrous royal blue into its own Streamliner sports watch. Execution here is thoughtful to a fault: whereas previous Bucherer editions went the obvious route, embedding blue within movements and dials, Moser has opted to showcase the Streamliner’s unique form language with a gem setting consisting of 60 baguette-cut sapphires.
These precious stones, cast in a brilliant procession of shimmering blues, are cut in different sizes – in order to maximise the irregularly large, downturned corners of the Streamliner bezel. Clever and unexpected, it’s a fitting way to pay tribute to Bucherer’s storied heritage in jewellery; whilst functioning as aesthetic punctuation in the overarching design. Wearers can get a sense of how effectively this gem setting complements other peripheral elements (e.g. the flying tourbillon) from the video below:
Technical specs across the board remain consistent with the Vantablack Streamliner that Moser released earlier this year. Similarly, this Bucherer LE comes sized in a 40mm case and is powered by a self-winding tourbillon movement (HMC 804) outfitted with the brand’s signature double hairspring. Constructed in stainless steel – with more than enough functional water resistance – this is a breath of fresh air in a segment of the watch market that’s best known (these days, at least) for widespread banality.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Bucherer BLUE Edition will be limited to 18 pieces, priced at CHF 109,000 or €126,000 ($187,000).
