When Jaeger-LeCoultre relaunched the Polaris in 2018, it had all the hallmarks of the ingredients required to be a fantastic sports watch collection. With a compelling sports heritage, ample wrist presence and the might of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical know-how, it was always going to be a popular timepiece. This year, the dive watch collection has seen the addition of some complexity, in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar, which is one of the most exciting releases of Watches & Wonders 2022.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar: What Is It?
The Polaris is an easy watch to recognise thanks to the pair of crowns on the right-hand side of the case, echoing the super-compressor design that was so popular in dive watches of the 1970s. This large sporty case offers equally significant amounts of dial real estate, thanks in part to the internal bezel, making it an ideal size dial for a Perpetual Calendar display.
With options in pink gold or steel, this is a serious new player in the world of complicated luxury sports watches.
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Case
The case of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar measures 42mm in diameter, remaining balanced in its proportions at 11.97mm thick. With a finely executed blend of brushed and polished case surfaces, the twin crowns can be found at 2 and 4 o’clock respectively, as well as a single pusher to correct the calendar mechanism at 8 o’clock.
Dial
The time-only expression of the Polaris has a not insignificant dial territory, which gives off the visual impression of a watch that is much larger than the 42mm case actually delivers. By some Swiss magic, the busier dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar actually makes the watch look smaller, thanks to the nearly proportioned subdials and compact features that imply an equally compact case. Just like the regular Polaris, beneath the sapphire crystal and framing the dial itself is a 60-minute diving bezel that can be rotated via a crown.
Movement
Powering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is the automatic in-house calibre 868AA, which is a cleverly designed movement, which has several safety mechanisms created to stop you from accidentally breaking the complicated calendar movement within. Ticking away at 28,800vph, the movement offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve with just a single mainspring barrel.
Strap & Bracelet
Much like the rest of the Polaris collection, this Perpetual Calendar is available with a stainless steel bracelet for the steel reference, while the pink gold version comes on a blue rubber strap that works very nicely with the coloured precious metal. If you prefer, there’s a leather strap that is also available for both watches.
Verdict & Price
With the history of groundbreaking technical watchmaking that Jaeger-LeCoultre has, any watch enthusiast worth their salt will admit that this complicated new Polaris is both wonderfully designed and represents excellent value. Yes, “value” isn’t the first word that comes to mind when talking about five-figure wristwatches, but hear me out.
The 41mm pink gold CODE 11:59 Perpetual Calendar by Audemars Piguet has an RRP of CHF 84,600 (~AU$121,639), while a sporty equivalent from Patek Philippe in the Nautilus ref. 5726/1A in steel costs CHF 48,272 (~AU$69,406). The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is just CHF 29,200 (AU$44,100) in stainless steel, while the pink gold example has an RRP of CHF 43,700 (AU$66,000) – almost half of the CODE 11:59. So if you enjoy spending your money wisely, and understand why Jaeger-LeCoultre is “the watchmaker’s watchmaker,” then this latest expression of the Polaris is a great watch no matter what angle you consider it from.
