Even 13 years after it first debuted, A. Lange & Söhne’s original Zeitwerk remains a horological revelation. In essence, traditional luxury watchmaking’s middle finger to the hackneyed digital watch, it’s among the small handful of mechanical watches that features multiple ‘jumping’ displays.
In the metal, watching the hour and minute discs ‘jump’ in unison – say, from 11:59 to 12:00 – is oddly, indescribably satisfying – with its implementation being the result of hundreds of hours of research and development.
In 2009, the formative layout for the displays was based on the 5-minute clock at the Semperoper Dresden; while the gargantuan energy demands (of a watch with no less than three ‘jumping’ numerals) proved to be the catalyst for inventing a new kind of constant-force escapement.
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In the years since, Lange has put out a slew of variations all based on the original design, but at the close of 2022 we’re getting our first look at generation 2.0 of the Zeitwerk. Despite a striking resemblance to the previous iteration, the new Zeitwerks incorporate a few pivotal upgrades – something that’s immediately apparent on the technical front.
Consisting of two variations (in platinum or pink gold) this initial release offers a revised assortment of case metals and dial executions. Notably, the second-gen Zeitwerk doesn’t include any variations which combine white metals with a black dial, though (considering Lange’s previous practice of incrementally unveiling new design options) a model in the style of the previous generation ‘Lumen’ is surely on the cards.
Only in usage does it become apparent just how hard Lange has worked to fortify the Zeitwerk’s (already considerable) mechanical sophistication. The use of a new movement – the calibre L043.6 – means the Zeitwerk now boasts a genuine 3-day power reserve; whereas the revamped movement architecture makes the watch significantly more user-friendly.
A large pusher, at the 4 o’clock position, allows the jumping hour to be adjusted independently: a hugely important (if un-sexy) upgrade that means wearers no longer have to cycle through 60 minutes increments in order to set the precise time.
On the aesthetic front, Lange has pursued an agenda of “subtle changes”, tinkering around the proverbial edges of the Zeitwerk’s clean and innovative design. For instance, the new movement offered the brand’s watchmakers an opportunity to go slimmer on the case profile, while the revamped dial places a greater emphasis (literally) on the distinctive seconds register.
All told, it’s the correct call: the ‘wings’ incorporating both jumping displays now appear longer and thinner; whereas the slight (but perceptible) difference in scale, between the seconds register and power reserve, enhance the Zeitwerk’s characteristically strong legibility. So, more of a good thing – you won’t hear us complaining.
