From the legendary Longines “Dirty Dozen” field watches of the Second World War to the iconic pilot chronographs of the same era, Longines has an important history of providing uncompromisingly functional timepieces to the armed forces. In a revival of one of the Saint-Imier-based watchmaker’s oldest pilot watch designs, the Longines Pilot Majetek is a historically faithful reedition of a Czech Air Force watch from 1935.
While pilot watches of that period are known for their large cases and dials for maximum legibility, the timepieces Longines created for the Czech Air Force were even bolder than most with relatively oversized 41mm cases (civilian men’s watches at the time were around the 30mm mark) and fluted bezels. As has become synonymous with the pilot watch design language today, the expansive dials were dark to deliver high contrast to its luminescent white Arabic numeral hour markers, while also featuring an innovative rotating bezel to track elapsed time – a development built on from the now-iconic Longines timepiece created for Charles Lindbergh’s pioneering flight across the Atlantic in 1927.
This isn’t the first time Longines has recreated this Czech Air Force-inspired timepiece, with the Heritage 1935 released in 2014 giving collectors an enticing taste of what was to come in the now hugely successful Heritage collection. However, the new Longines Pilot Majetek is even more historically accurate than its predecessor in several important areas, as well as adds a number of contemporary touches including a superior movement inside and improved water resistance.
The Longines Pilot Majetek arrives with a cushion-shaped and sharply faceted stainless steel case that measures 43mm in diameter, with a profile that stands 13.3mm tall on the wrist. The case now features ergonomically shaped crown guards, and polished bevels between the brushed case surfaces to emphasise their visual presence, as well as a solid caseback that guarantees the watch 100m of water resistance.
The caseback has also been engraved to read the watch’s name and reference number, as well as its top-line features, while the left side of the case (as you look at it) has a screwed-down plate that reads “1935”. Perhaps the most compelling element of the case design apart from its sheer impact is the fluted rotating bezel, which, unlike the example from 2014, has an adjustable triangle marker that sits between the dial and sapphire crystal above it to allow for timing events. As one of the most functional and useful elements of this 1935 design, it’s a treat to see it revived in all its glory.
Arriving at the dial and we have a slightly granular black surface, which acts as the contrasting backdrop for the bold “old radium” Super-LumiNova coated hour markers that are a breeze to read. At 6 o’clock there’s a perfectly proportioned and slightly stepped seconds subdial, which combined with the elevated bezel triangle gives the dial a mesmerising visual depth to it that’s hard to pull your eyes from.
Hidden beneath the dial of the Longines Pilot Majetek is the newly developed automatic calibre L893.6, which is COSC certified for improved accuracy, has a silicon balance spring to assist anti-magnetism and a very healthy 72 hours of power reserve when fully wound. This calibre also features a recently patented gear mechanism, which is hidden behind the “1935” plate on the side of the case for easy servicing.
As you’d expect from a pilot watch that takes inspiration from the mid-30s, it arrives with your choice of the strap as either a khaki green NATO strap that’s woven from recycled fibres, or a dark green or dark brown leather strap, which features beige stitching. All three are secured with a brushed steel pin buckle.
We’ve come to expect big things from Longines heritage-inspired watches over the last decade and the Longines Pilot Majetek doesn’t disappoint, as a timepiece that’s faithful to its own history, but balanced with a number of modern features that are more than enough to make you consider it over a vintage watch. It’s currently available from Longines boutiques and online, with the watch arriving with an Australian RRP of $5,600, or the special edition box complete with an additional khaki green NATO strap, spring bar tool and Chronometer Officially Certified card for $5,775.
This article is sponsored by Longines. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting.
