A doyenne of the indie watchmaking scene (right now, one that’s absolutely heaving with competition) Naoya Hida has developed a cult following both in and outside of Japan in the 5 short years that he has been operational.
Now, with the ruckus of Watches & Wonders a distant memory, the well-heeled Japanese designer has taken the opportunity to reveal his new ‘Type 4A’ watches – the fourth series to be produced since 2018.
More casual and compact than the brand’s previous efforts (i.e. the Type 2A), these Type 4 models are essentially a 36mm expression of all the visual cues that made Hida-san’s original timepieces such a hit when his eponymous brand first launched.
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Both feature dials machined out of German silver – a quirk of production that will resonant with collectors of German brands like A. Lange & Söhne – with the Type 4A-1’s version sporting an added DLC finish. Meanwhile, each handset consists of a flame-blued seconds hand and an hour-and-minute combo that is “diamond-shaped”.
At a distance, the effect is of a sparingly styled daily wearer, with clear influences from the Patek Philippe and Longines school of design (circa 1950). However, the real appeal of these watches – as any Naoya Hida collector will tell you – is in small details, intimately observed.
For instance, the deep layered impression of each Arabic numeral is achieved through a process of engraving and then lacquer filling; whereas the stainless steel used for case-making is of the 904L variety – the same subclass favoured by Rolex thank to its high polishing capacity.
In particular, despite its clear grounding in the traditions of mid-century watchmaking, the Type 4A-1 feels thoroughly at home in a contemporary setting. Together with the hefty Alpha-style diamond hands, the cobalt grey dial gives off a casual and sporty look: one we can picture wearing well alongside Momotaro jeans or your best winter-weight sportcoat.
As with the previous series of Naoya Hida watches, production numbers are keep on the intentionally sparse side. This is to adjust for the fact that the making of the case, dial, and modification of the movements (‘new old stock’ Valjoux 7750s, just FYI) occurs through a handful of local Japanese partners. Consequently, both the Type 4A and 4A-1 will be limited to a production run of 15 pieces respectively.
Those keen on expressing an interest can do so through the brand’s website, or alternatively (assuming you’re feeling lucky) register for an allocation – decided via lottery – through The Armoury. Applications for the latter open on 14 May.
