Cartier has always been a popular choice with discerning collectors, but it’s hard to overstate the success the Maison has enjoyed in recent years, with both modern and vintage timepieces exploding in popularity. For its new releases in 2025, Cartier has continued to revive the iconic forms that earned it such a position, as well as the debut of an original, organic watch collection that’s sure to turn heads.
For several years now, Cartier’s rarified Privé line-up has been one of the best – if not the best – collections launched at Watches & Wonders. The 2023 Tank Normale is a watch that continues to live rent-free in collectors’ minds, and the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph from 2024 is another winner. This year, the Privé range revives one of the most celebrated Tank models of all time: the Tank à Guichets.
While some of us would love a fresh Santos to wear on the daily, the new watches Cartier is launching for 2025 have an unmistakably elevated feel to them. If you’ve been lusting after a watch for special occasions, this year’s releases offer plenty to get excited about.
Highlights From The 2025 Cartier Collection
Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets
I’ve little doubt that these fresh expressions of the Tank à Guichets will be one of the stars of 2025. The digital display of this design first appeared in 1928 and since then – while there are some debates about production numbers – it’s safe to estimate less than 280 examples have been created before this year (and 250 of those after 1997), making it one of the rarest and most desirable watches to ever leave a Cartier manufacture.
In total, Cartier has announced four new references, three of which faithfully reflect the original 1928 design with the crown at 12 o’clock and are crafted in platinum, rose, and yellow gold. The fourth reference for 2025 is also crafted from platinum, but is the only numbered limited edition (200 pieces) and features the hour and minute apertures at an angle – in the style of an early driving watch.
The vertically brushed cases of all four references measure 37.6mm in length and 24.8mm in width, with an impressive thickness of just 6mm, thanks to the manually wound 9755 MC movement within. All four also arrive on alligator leather straps, each dyed in a different colour to reflect the watch’s metal.
While the three references inspired by the original from 1928 are not numbered limited editions, we can guarantee their production numbers will be low in line with past members of the Privé collection. An archive with the depths of Cartier is a treat for any watchmaker, but it’s exciting to see the Tank à Guichets return this year as a shining example of the restrained creativity of the Art Deco era.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Next up we have a fresh expression of the emblematic Tank design language in the new Tank Louis Cartier. The brand has been evolving the Tank Louis Cartier line-up for the last few years – with inky black dials in 2022 and with coloured lacquer or a pixelated motif in 2023 – always equipped with manually wound movements in order to preserve a slim profile on the wrist.
Where things change in 2025, however, is the introduction of the automatic movement 1899 MC to the Tank Louis Cartier range – the same movement currently used in the Tank Américaine references from 2023 – ticking away at 28,800bph and providing a 36-hour power reserve. This also means a slightly larger case size when compared to the 2023 Tank Louis Cartier releases, now measuring 38.1mm in length, 27.75mm wide and 8.18mm thick (compared to 33.7mm long, 25.5mm wide, and 6.6mm thick).
The most obvious update is in the design of the dial, with Cartier leaving behind brightly coloured lacquer dials and adopting a more traditional design with Roman numerals enhanced by subtle linework radiating from the dial’s centre. Arriving in both yellow and rose gold case options, both references are paired with a semi-matte alligator leather strap.
Cartier Panthère de Cartier
There were too many other highlights to include in our favourites from Cartier’s 2024 collection, but last year, the Panthère de Cartier made a triumphant return with a full range of both men’s and women’s sizes. In 2025, Cartier decided to take the collection to an entirely different level, elevating the line-up beyond what the previous solid gold references offered so that it now offers semi-pave diamond settings on both bracelets and bezels.
If a solid yellow or rose gold Panthère de Cartier encrusted with diamonds still isn’t enough, the French-founded watchmaker has a few other cards in play. The star of the collection is a jaw-dropping new reference that arrives in rose gold, set with 398 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and bracelet, a further 145 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the dial and the scarce real estate between the diamonds set with two shades of spessartite gemstones (86 in total) covered in black and golden-brown lacquer.
The motif created by the diamonds, spessartites, and lacquer take inspiration from both tiger and zebra coats (“Cartier imagines an abstract coat, neither entirely zebra nor entirely tiger”) and requires no less than 110 hours to produce. A little loud for a daily watch, but perfect as a statement piece in any Cartier collection.
Cartier Tressage
Last but certainly not least is a horological interpretation of Cartier’s Tressage jewellery collection. Taking the same voluminous, almost aquatic proportions of the Tressage jewellery, Cartier has translated these forms into a line-up of watches that span the gulf between cuff and timepiece.
There are four references in total – two in white gold and two in yellow gold – with the curvaceous gadroons that make up the case sides variously set with diamonds and sapphires, or simply polished to an eye-catching mirror finish. Undeniably architectural, extravagant, and delivering a radiant presence on the wrist, the new Tressage range showcases the brand’s mastery of shape from every angle.
Check out some of our other favourites from Watches & Wonders 2025 below:
- Tudor’s New Watches For 2025 Nail The Brief
- TAG Heuer Drops Nostalgic New Grid Of F1-Inspired Timepieces
- Hublot’s Big Bang Turns 20 (And The Celebration Is Spectacular)
- The Accuracy Arms Race: How Grand Seiko Is Leading The Pack In 2025
Be sure to follow our rolling coverage of this year’s show here and via Instagram.
