With the sporty spectre of the Nautilus fading into memory and the relatively new Cubitus the source of enthusiast ire, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe has returned to what it does best: chasing watchmaking’s platonic ideal.
Announced this week, Patek Philippe has debuted a devastatingly beautiful new platinum Calatrava alongside a sibling with eight days of power reserve, and a “Quadruple Complication” in platinum that more than deserves a little explanation.
For long-time Patek Philippe collectors, this is the collection they’ve been waiting for. It’s one of the best expressions of traditional watchmaking we’ve seen in a little while – one that focuses on proportion, aesthetic balance, and technical sophistication. There’s a lot to love, so let’s get into it.
Highlights From The 2025 Patek Philippe Collection
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P
Here on the ground at Watches & Wonders, anyone you speak with about Patek Philippe will mention the Calatrava ref. 6196P. Not only that, but they’ll do so with a level of excitement I haven’t heard directed towards the brand in a while.
In essence, the 6196P is a dress watch in its purest form. Crafted from platinum, the case measures 38mm in diameter and 9.33mm thick, the dial is a collector-coveted shade of salmon, and the movement is the beautifully finished calibre 30-255 PS with at least 65 hours of power reserve.
Paired with a brown alligator leather strap, you’ve got a watch that any collector you know would move mountains to own. To get one on your wrist, expect the RRP of CHF40,000 (~AU$72,400).
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day Ref. 5328G
Another Calatrava, but this time a little more rough and ready. The excitement around the 8 Day ref. 5328G is all about the calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J that powers it. If you’ve only been keeping an eye on watches for a little while, it’s safe to say that any new calibre from Patek Philippe is pretty big news, especially when it arrives inside a watch this handsome.
What’s special about this movement isn’t just the twin mainspring barrels that make eight whole days of power reserve possible (plus a ninth day in “reserve”); it’s the fact that there’s a day display that jumps instantaneously, and bridges visibly through the expertly finished caseback.
Cased in white gold, the watch has a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 10.52mm, which aren’t quite the goldilocks ratios of the aforementioned ref. 6196P. However, when you consider the scope of the movement housed within this case size, you immediately realise how much the team at Patek Philippe have managed to fit inside the ref. 5328G. It arrives with an RRP of CHF60,000 (~AU$108,600).
Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G
Straying beyond the bounds of the Calatrava family, our other favourite of the new watches from Patek Philippe this year is the Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G. What exactly is a “Quadruple Complication”? It’s a watch that features four highly complex mechanisms within it: specifically, a perpetual calendar, a chronograph with a split-seconds function (the split-seconds function counts as a separate mechanism), and a minute repeater.
The ref. 5308 first appeared in the form of a platinum-cased special edition, which was only available at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo in 2023. Two years later, it returns in white gold as a member of the permanent collection.
Powered by the remarkably complicated micro-rotor automatic calibre R CHR 27 PS QI, it needs a sizable case to house so many functions, and Patek Philippe has managed to fit it all into a white gold case that measures 42mm in diameter and 16.16mm thick. It’s far from small, but in the context of what it’s capable of, its size more than makes sense.
Arriving with an eye-catching icy blue dial and matching blue alligator leather strap, it’s a very serious piece of watchmaking and with an equally serious presence on the wrist. Unsurprisingly, it arrives with an RRP of CHF1,050,000 (~AU$1,900,500).
Check out some of our other favourites from Watches & Wonders 2025 below:
- Why The Rolex Land-Dweller Is So Significant (And Why It Looks So Familiar)
- The Panerai Luminor Marina Just Got Smarter, Stronger, & More Striking
- Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Latest Creations Are A Symphony In Steel & Gold
- TAG Heuer Drops Nostalgic New Grid Of F1-Inspired Timepieces
And be sure to follow our rolling coverage of this year’s show here and via Instagram.
