Upon its initial release in 2004, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection was intended as a tribute to the minimalism of the 1950s.
More often than not, invoking gold dress watches with ultra-thin cases and a refined sensibility, it’s uncontroversial to observe that this style of watchmaking is one Vacheron has a formidable track record in. (Fun Fact: when the brand released Calibre 1003 in 1955, it was the thinnest movement in the world.)
Now, this week, as part of its wider schedule at Watches & Wonders 2024, the brand is once again iterating on the Patrimony collection: courtesy of three new models that are essentialist in style, whilst remaining “firmly rooted in the modernity of their era”.
In addition to the Patrimony line-up, Vacheron Constantin has also turned its attention to the ever-popular Overseas collection, with no less than four new references. Delivering a green and gold impression on the wrist that could see them represent Australia, it’s an attractive quartet of new watches that adds to the already compelling Overseas collection.
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Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date
Starting with the most mechanically complex of the three new Patrimony pieces, the new Moonphase Retrograde Date is more of an addition than a completely original unveiling — joining the existent line-up of 42.5mm models with date/moonphase indication.
It’s a shame that Vacheron’s watchmakers didn’t take a run at reducing the form factor of this release (so that it would more closely align with the new time-only models) but, judged on its own merits, the end result is a fairly handsome thing.
The dial is decorated with an antique silver-toned sunburst effect; while the case is machined in white gold. Along with pink gold hands and indices, the overall effect is clearly inspired by what you’ll find in the 39mm Patrimony Manual-Winding (more on that shortly).
In light of the model’s history (the first Patrimony with retrograde date and moonphase indications was released in 2017) it makes sense that Vacheron would equip this variation with an existing movement. Not only does the calibre 2460 R31L incorporate the two aforementioned complications; but it also manages to integrate a self-winding rotor (going some way to explaining the 42.5mm size).
Two Moods Of Patrimony Manual-Winding
As alluded to earlier, the remaining two releases offer a subtle tweak on the classic time-only Patrimony dress watch. Superficially unchanged from previous incarnations, this latest Patrimony Manual-Winding is available, for the first time, in a 39mm diameter — great news for a broad spectrum of collectors, regardless of gender.
The “old silver-toned” process used to colour the Moonphase Retrograde Date is also presented here (in both white and pink gold models). The resulting texture and tonality play well with the collection’s signature convex dial.
Like its 40mm predecessor, Vacheron Constantin also opted to offer the new Patrimony Manually-Wound with a solid caseback: an invitation to consider custom text/image-based engravings.
Next to the other new watches launched in 2024 (i.e. the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph in platinum) these Vacheron Constantin Patrimony dress watches may feel a touch perfunctory. It’s only when you consider the core values that have underscored the collection these past 20 years (namely ultra-thin movements and a look of “extreme understatement”) that you start to see the 39mm Patrimony’s value.
“It is certainly true that the design of the Patrimony is so simple,” says Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, “that modifying it without altering its character is a tricky exercise”.
“Since its launch in 2004, we have opted to develop it in a very subtle way. One of the strengths of Patrimony is that it is both timeless and firmly rooted in its era.”
Four New Green & Gold Heaters In The Overseas Collection
This week, Vacheron has elected to add two new time-only references to the Overseas collection: including the classic 41mm (10.69mm thick) and mid-sized 35mm (9.33mm in thickness) example with a diamond-set bezel. Both are cased in 5N rose gold and sport olive-coloured sunburst dials that make for a classic colour medley in #WatchLand.
The same rose-gold-on-green treatment has been leveraged in service of the Overseas Dual Time: Vacheron’s answer to the GMT Masters of the world. Capable of displaying the time in two locales simultaneously (with the added benefit of a date window and AM/PM indicator), this latest incarnation is a seriously lavish take on the ubiquitous travel watch — most at home in the pointy end of the plane.
Vacheron’s fourth and final addition to the Overseas collection is a new chronograph: also cased in 5N rose gold (42.5mm x 12.67mm) and featuring the eye-catching olive green dial.
Once again, the technical specs will sound familiar to collectors of high-end brands, yet this particular colour scheme, new for 2024, takes what was already impressive and makes that exceptional.
Among real horological pedants, a quick assessment with calipers reveals that this version is 0.73m thinner than last year’s ‘Panda’ variation. As it turns out, the pursuit of perfection can be measured in millimeters.
