Sure, Patek Philippe is universally known for creating some of the world’s most complex and beautiful timepieces, but there’s a special place in the history of the brand for the World Timer. One of a trio of newly released traveller watches, the Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G is one that Australians and the rest of Oceania should love.
Patek Philippe World Time Ref: 5231G: What Is It?
Patek Philippe’s history with the world time complication dates back nearly a century, to the 1930s when Louis Cottier first invented the ingenious mechanism. For more than nine decades, Patek Philippe has adorned the dials of these watches with Grand Feu cloisonné enamel maps of the world, and this year, the map depicts Australia, South-East Asia and beyond.
Case
Executed in 38.5mm of white gold, the 5231G remains thin when you consider its complexity, standing just 10.23mm off your wrist. The caseback is closed with a sapphire crystal exhibition window, showing an uninterrupted view of the impeccably finished movement within. With just 30m of water resistance, you’d better remember to take it off before you jump in the pool after a long-haul flight.
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Dial
The dal is an absolute masterpiece of balance, proportion and peerlessly executed rare handcraft. While the circumference of the dial features the city names of 24 different timezones, as well as an inner ring to show if each city is in day or night, praise belongs to the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel centre disc.
If you look closely, each of the islands and continents is actually defined by a thin gold wire, which allows the enamel artist to articulate the landmass from the ocean. The gold wire also helps prevents the different enamel pigments from bleeding into one another when they are in liquid form, before each is solidified in an 800-degree ceramic oven.
Within both the land and ocean areas, colour has been used to offer something of a satellite view, showing different climates and ocean depths within the tones. Once the colour is set, more transparent enamel is applied to protect the pigment, as well as offer a surface for the printed logo.
Movement
Beneath the dial is the self-winding calibre 240 HU, wound via a yellow gold micro-rotor visible through the exhibition caseback. Containing a total of 239 expertly finished components, the movement is only 3.8mm thick and offers 48 hours of power reserve.
Strap
This enamelled masterpiece from Patek Philippe arrives on a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, which is closed via a white gold folding clasp that matches the case.
Verdict & Price
If you appreciate the complexity and aesthetics of a world time watch, you’ll find it difficult not to love this new Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G. From the historically important part that Patek Philippe has played in the history of all world time watches, to the expertly crafted movement and masterpiece of a dial, the 5231G is about as good as it gets. When you also consider the Goldilocks-zone 38.5mm case size too, you’ll realise it has it all.
Of the three world time watches Patek Philippe released this year, it’s the most expensive by a decent margin, outpacing the platinum and hand-guilloché dial 5230P, as well as the yellow gold and diamond bezel 7130R. This goes some way to explaining just how difficult and time consuming it is to create a dial from Grand Feu cloisonné enamel. The Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G has an RRP of CHF70,000 and while it isn’t a limited edition, will likely sell as quickly as Patek Philippe can manufacture them.
