Last year, in typically understated Japanese fashion, Seiko quietly introduced its 6R55 and 6R5J calibres – the latest generation in the ongoing family of 6R movements first introduced in 2006.
We’ll try our best to avoid descending into weapons-grade nerdery, but nevertheless, a quick recap is helpful. When Japan’s preeminent watch manufacturer introduced the 6R, now nearly 20 years ago, its goal was to create a movement with upscale finishes and superior performance – yet one still capable of iterative improvement.
In 2025, the benchmarks may have shifted, but Seiko’s quest remains.
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In comparison with its predecessors, the latest entrants into the 6R family boast a full-throated 3-day power reserve. Along with various other proprietary Seiko innovations – SPRON alloy, anybody? – these 6R calibres are instrumental in making robust and practical timepieces, requiring little in the way of maintenance despite their high daily accuracy.
Of course, half the fun is in seeing how this performance manifests itself on the wrist. Here then, without further ado, are four of our favourite new Seiko watch lines – notable for their usage of calibres 6R5J and 6R55.
The Prospex ‘Sea Resort’ Divers
Jointly released as a trio late last year, these ‘Sea Resort’ themed Prospexes boast a 41.3mm form factor that wears fairly true-to-size.
As part of the bestselling Seiko collection that “appeals to sports lovers and adventure seekers”, you know exactly what to expect on the technical front from these 6R-equipped dive watches. In line with the movement’s premium lean, each case is geared toward divers with a 300-metres water resistance; while the display elements are protected using sapphire crystal.
There are blue, cream and ‘textured charcoal’ dial treatments to choose from – which we wager will all look equally stylish against a backdrop of lagoons, palm trees, and swim-up bars. Our favourite detail is the ‘coastal’ dial motif: consisting of wavy, reflection-catching lines that have been engraved from top to bottom.
The Prospex ‘Heritage’ Divers
Offering a more conventional dial and bezel design than Seiko’s ‘Sea Resort’ releases, these black and blue Prospex divers are basically the best game in town if you’re looking for a classic, value-driven sports watch.
Part of the modern re-envisioning of Seiko’s original 1965 diver, these releases take the most recognisable elements of that design – transporting them seamlessly into the modern day.
Chunky rectangular indexes (decorated with Lumibrite) ensure great legibility in and out of the water, while the date window complication – part and parcel of the calibre 6R55 – is one of the best executed we’ve seen. Circular and colour-matched, its presence is of minimal disruption to the rest of the Prospex Diver’s look.
And what a look that is! Sporting a slimmed down 40mm x 13mm size, these classic Prospex Divers are a compelling proposition no matter whether you’re a collector of modern or vintage. Not to mention: a real first-rate gift idea for somebody who wants to get into watches.
The Presage Classic Series
One cannot endorse Seiko without touching on the brand’s penchant for elegant dials inspired by leitmotifs of Japanese culture – and the recently released Presage ‘Classic’ watches certainly continue in this mould.
Produced in shiro-iro (off-white), araigaki (persimmon), and sumi-iro (charcoal) colourways, each riff on Seiko’s signature date-equipped dress watch picks a hue that anchors its inspiration in the land and civilisation of Japan. (The sumi-iro, for example, mimics the very specific mixture of grey and black tones you’ll spy in robes worn by Buddhist monks.)
At 40.2mm x 13mm, these Presage watches are clearly intended to flatter a wide range of wrist sizes – offering up a sufficiently big canvas from which to enjoy each dial’s colour and loamy texture.
Till now, all of our recommendations have been taken up by references equipped with Seiko’s 6R55 movement; but for enthusiasts after something a shade more complex, we’d steer you toward the ‘open heart’ Presages.
Available with either sunburst charcoal or cream dial finishes, these are set apart by their use of the more complicated 6R5J movement. Beyond central time and hacking seconds, the 5J architecture’s big advantage is that it incorporates a 24-hour hand – displayed in a sub-dial next to the watch’s exposed escapement (a.k.a. its ‘heart’).
This article is presented in partnership with Seiko. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting.