Trends in the luxury watch industry might move glacially compared to the hype-y and propulsive world of fashion, but you’d be wrong to think that tastes don’t shift among watch collectors. In 2024, stone dials were the biggest new trend of the year — building on a wave of enthusiasm for design-focused timepieces to a crescendo of tiger eye, lapis lazuli, and malachite.
How did we get here? A few years ago, the auction of Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona for US$17,752,500 (AU$23,188,315) caused vintage Rolex Daytonas and Submariners to become the hottest things since sliced bread. That eagerness for utilitarian tool watches gradually evolved into an appetite for the more chic category of stainless steel sports watches, with models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reaching record prices.
In 2022, the steel sports watch bubble burst and with it came a new wave of collector interest in timepieces that stood out from the crowd. Familiar steel models were out and in came shapely timepieces crafted from precious metal, often featuring interesting textures, rare dial materials, and lesser-known names on the dial.
All this leads us to the present moment: when we wrote about this move into design-focused watches for B.H. Magazine Volume II, and the biggest trend of 2024 is a broad adaoption of stone dials (a category I’ve been collecting since 2020).
With 2024 sure to be remembered as the year stone dials rocked the mainstream, we’re looking back at several of our favourites.
Berneron Mirage 34
With an asymmetrical case, dial, and movement that conjures up more of a Salvador Dali artwork than a classic wristwatch, the Berneron Mirage is one of our most discussed watches of the year.
The 34mm versions with either a tiger eye or lapis lazuli dial elevate the unconventional design even further.
Rolex Day-Date 40
While mother-of-pearl is technically be an organic-inorganic composite material, the Rolex Day-Date-based take is from 2024 is one of the best we’ve seen in years.
The brand’s legendarily collectible Stella dials give this iridescent Day-Date a healthy historical precedent; and with ten baguette-cut diamonds serving as hour markers, the mineral bling is evident for all to see.
Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris
Piaget’s ‘Andy Warhol’ collection is famed for its stone dials, but this new addition to the line-up for 2024 still presents plenty that’s novel: cased in white gold with a blue meteorite dial and hobnailed bezel.
Baltic Prismic
Baltic has long been one of Boss Hunting‘s favourite micro-brands; and this year the team debuted the Prismic collection, styled as a classic 36mm dress watch with dial options including red agate, green jade, and lapis lazuli.
Toledano & Chan B/1
Inspired by a love of Brutalist architecture, the aggressively angular Toledano & Chan B/1 is crafted from 904L stainless steel and features a charming lapis lazuli dial.
To drive home the uncompromising aesthetic, it is sold in a literal concrete box — ‘tortured genius’ architect sold separately.
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture
The team at Frederique Constant pulled out all the stops for this one, taking the Classic Moonphase model and crafting the case from white gold, with a dial whos base layer is cut from deep green malachite stone.
Dennison A. L. D.
In a world where most stone dial watches cost tens of thousands of dollars, the Dennison A. L. D. collection is an affordable breath of fresh air.
Boasting softly shaped steel cases (with the option of gold tone), there are four different stone dial options that include all of the usual suspects: namely tiger’s eye, malachite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine.
Biver Automatique Atelier Series
Established by the watch industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, the Biver watch brand launched its Automatique collection this year with two models featuring either a pietersite or obsidian dial material.
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1
Created to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the A. Lange & Söhne’s iconic Lange 1, this Little Lange 1 limited edition features a platinum case and black dial that — upon closer inspection — reveals itself to be made out of black onyx.
Timex Q
If you want a stone dial watch on your wrist, there’s likely no more affordable option than the Timex Q collection. Arriving in a 36mm case, it is available to purchase on an old-school expansion bracelet, in your choice of tiger eye, lapis lazuli, or malachite dials.
Bulova x Complecto Super Seville
Inspired by the Bulova Super Seville Day-Date from the 1970s, this limited edition collection of three models arrives in stainless steel with dials made from either turquoise, tiger eye, or snowflake obsidian.
