At last year’s watch shows, it was clear that TAG Heuer was making a special point to embrace the ‘techniques avant-garde‘ ethos implied by its own name; with a slew of releases utilising everything from solar power modules to lab-grown diamonds. The 2023 collection from TAG Heuer is no different.
Mind you, that isn’t to say that the brand’s appearance at Watches & Wonders in 2023 has been light on such experimentations, but the cumulative impression I’ve certainly gotten is one of consolidation: as you’ll see from the sheer number of new iterations on existing favorites, in both the flagship Carrera and Aquaracer collections.
Below, you’ll find our top-line summary of all the notable pieces to come out of the TAG Heuer 2023 novelties presentation and, as always, be sure to check out all the new watches from other brands exhibiting at the Salon here.
Highlights From The TAG Heuer 2023 Novelties Presentation
- Aquaracer in solid 18-karat gold
- TAG Heuer Carrera Date in four new colourways
- TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph releases
- TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ releases
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The Aquaracer Reimagined: In solid 18-karat gold
TAG Heuer’s zesty new take on the popular Aquaracer Professional 200 (available in both 40mm rose and yellow gold cases) offers a distinctly hedonistic way to wear the traditional time-and-date model.
Regardless of preference, both come standard with the calibre TH31-00: part of a new series of self-winding movements optimised for TAG’s sports watches, developed under the direction of Carole Forestier (formerly of Cartier). These deliver 80 hours of reserve power; COSC certification; a reworked rotor design; and are even backed by an extensive 5-year warranty.
Still very much in keeping with the “basic form and design principles” of the contemporary Aquaracer (which, some of you will remember, only made its debut in 2021) these new models add some much-needed variety to the collection – embodying the first solid gold models available.
In order to preserve the connection with the Aquaracer’s broader reputation as a “watch for outdoor [adventurers]”, TAG has included functionally helpful details: like a DLC-coated winding crown, and caseback machined out of titanium. Regardless, this is a compelling enticement for those who thought the previous Aquaracers Professionals were a little bit too ascetic for their tastes – and (as always) there’s a certain perverse satisfaction one gets from wearing a ‘tool watch’ that is made in noble metals.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Date: Now in 4 bold new colourways
As a brand that has always appealed to a young, dynamic and lifestyle-conscious crowd, you can’t begrudge TAG for adding new boldly coloured options to its arsenal of Carrera Date watches. At 36mm x 10mm, it’s pretty obvious whose slice of pie in the horological marketplace TAG is attempting to nab; and if these early images are any indication, their chances look impressive.
Consisting of 4 colourways which will all be launching over the next two months, the new colourful Carreras are all typified by dials with a cheerful sunburst finish; a super-wearable case profile (2mm thinner than the previous iteration); and an upgraded Calibre 7 movements that improve each watch’s power reserve by more than 30%.
At a glance, TAG’s watchmakers have put the emphasis on refining what was already present: resulting in a daily wearer that feels marginally sharper than the earlier Carrera Date – now with an even broader range of colours to suit every kind of disposition.
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New additions to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph roster
Not to be confused with the vintage-inspired ‘glassbox’ Carrera releases (more on those in a second) these 42mm models embody “the next generation” of TAG Heuer sports chronographs – distinguished by a choice in black or blue dials, each with gradient orange detailing.
A modern descendant of the legendary chronograph watch named by Jack Heuer for the Carrera Panamericana, these new releases still emphasise the robustness and excellent legibility that were at the heart of the brand’s pre-TAG offering. The big aesthetic flourish here is the use of a gradient orange ring: running the length of the dial and framing the watch’s 60-second minute track. According to TAG’s designers, this creates the visual effect of a “visual crescendo” – mimicking the sensation of a speedometer approaching its limit or a rev counter on the verge of red-lining.
Since (we imagine) TAG Heuer execs envision a buyer who will take this Carrera out driving, the dial has been configured with the classic triple-register chronograph layout. Powering these 60-second, 30-minute, and 12-hour totalisers are the company’s Heuer 02 movement: a fixture since 2017 that is also used in the popular Autavia and Monaco collections.
One of the rare ‘new-ish’ movements in what is historically a derivative field, the Heuer 02 offers a pretty impressive power reserve (80 hours); has integrated componentry; and utilises a column wheel construction (you can visibly see it in the above image at 12 o’clock).
The TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’: Two-register chronographs and tourbillons
Truly, we saved the best for last. Part of TAG Heuer’s ongoing collection of ‘glassbox’ Carreras – all of which are inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on Heuer chronographs of the 1970s – this year’s new additions consist of a Glassbox Carrera with ‘signature blue’ dial; and a ‘reverse panda’ version (pictured above). Both versions will begin delivering in April.
The significance of these new chronographs lies in how well they translate the “universal quality” of the original Carrera’s design. Sized at 39mm, and possessing excellent across-the-board legibility, they remain a compelling proposition for motoring enthusiasts – function-driven yet sufficiently ergonomic for the everyday.
It’s also worth noting that, although TAG reps haven’t chosen to focus too much on the mechanical particulars of this new ‘Glassbox’, the movements powering them are evolutions of the Heuer 02 movement originally launched in 2020.
The changes mostly involve subtle technical improvements, with the new TH20-00 enclosing a bidirectional rotor and improved precision over the duration of its 80-hour power reserve. As in the solid gold Aquaracers, TAG is so bullish on the quality of the TH20-00 that it comes standard with a 5-year warranty.
The vintage inspiration and gently sloped curvature of the ‘Glassbox’ have also been bent toward the task of caging complications: in this case almost literally, with the launch of the new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon.
A handsome departure from the 45mm tourbillons that have been a fixture of TAG Heuer’s, the new Glassbox-fied take “can now be observed from a wider range of angles” – taking advantage of the domed crystal covering that is also standard across the regular 39mm chronographs.
The brainchild of Carol Forestier – who as a young watchmaker notably cut her teeth at the complicated watchmaking studio Renaud & Papi – this Chronograph Tourbillon is powered by the new calibre TH20-09. Despite the addition of the tourbillon, housed in a rhodium-plated cage at 6 o’clock (pictured above), the TH20-09 manages to deliver robust performance: backed up by a 65-hour power reserve and COSC certification.
The movement is also depth-rated to 100m: a very impressive feature when taking into account the inclusion of the tourbillon cage and the usage of a sapphire caseback. These will begin to hit the market in May, though no word so far on pricing.
