Earlier this week, Vacheron Constantin invited a handful of collectors and specialist media to experience its most coveted releases of 2024.
Inspired by the tagline ‘From Geometry To Artistry’, this private event held at Sydney’s most exciting new Japanese dining precinct, Prefecture 48 – was organised around two time-honoured themes in the Vacheron universe: classic aesthetics and complicated watchmaking, and involved more than a few glasses of vintage Champagne.
The event allowed guests to handle the watches, in Australia, for the first time – complete with original photography snapped in and around the Prefecture 48 setting.
Amongst the standout selection, these three pieces were our favourite from the evening – any one of which we’d happily cosign as the ultimate horological purchase.
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The Connoisseur’s Choice: Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
Both the least available and most complex novelty at Vacheron’s invite-only showcase, this tourbillon chronograph isn’t just part of the classically handsome Traditionnelle range – it’s also among a handful of watches in the rare ‘Excellence Platine’ collection.
The historical significance and insane technicity of the movement within this Traditionnelle – the Calibre 3200 – mean that Vacheron’s watchmakers were able to put it into ‘Platine’ production. A worldwide output of 50 pieces make this variation a certifiable rarity.
Adding to this collectability are a range of intricate details: such as the Maltese Cross motif, which is subtly incorporated into the chronograph’s column wheel and then again in the cage for the tourbillon.
As Christian Selmoni, Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, explains:
“Timepieces in this collection are produced in limited series featuring platinum on the case, winding crown, finely grained sand-blasted dial…as well as the Maltese cross-shaped clasp. Even the strap is stitched using silk and platinum thread.“
The Low-Key Choice: Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date
After about 6 months of staring at this year’s new Patrimony releases on various screens and devices, we were relieved to find that these “thin watches”, typified by a look of “extreme understatement”, lived up to expectation.
During Watches & Wonders, I spoke at length about how much of a sleeper hit, with the time-only 39mm model, Vacheron had on its hands. The Moonphase Retrograde Date brushes a similar kind of nerve: utilising subtle and minimalist design codes to tease out a dress watch that will appeal to a broad cross-section of tastes.
It is, per Selmoni’s description, a watch that “is both timeless and firmly rooted in its era”. The updates here aren’t revolutionary by any stretch (the case is now sized to 42.5mm and Vacheron has combined its retrograde date with a moonphase) but that is almost certainly intentional.
With its strong unisex wearability and practical appeal – it’s always good to know what date it is, amiright? – I imagine this watch amassing a fanbase, gradually and quietly, as time goes by.
The Points King’s Choice: Overseas Dual Time
Surely, if there was ever a Vacheron Constantin sports watch built for the BH audience, it’d be the Overseas. And despite the fact that it’s a collection now on the tip of every watch enthusiast’s tongue, I never get tired of singing its praises.
Of course, the appeal of the Self-Winding number in pink gold is obvious, but after coming to grips with the Dual Time variation (also sized at 41mm) I’m of the mind that the latter is pretty much the ultimate traveller’s watch.
That is assuming your definition of ‘travel’ involves F-class cabins, door-to-door transfers, and VIP status at a dozen of the world’s best hotels.
Oh and – just as an aside – the interchangeable leather and rubber strap options that the Dual Time is offered with go a long way to extending wearability. A true triple threat.
