Editor’s Note: This spread originally appeared in Volume II of B.H. Magazine. For access to future issues, consider subscribing here.
Fins on, mask at the ready. Seconds before slipping into the jewel-like lagoon a silvery shape glides by, before doubling back. It’s a shark; a blacktip reef shark. And although they are generally harmless to humans – especially a pup as small as this one – natural instincts can’t help but kick into gear. Your head tells you to exit the water immediately, while curiosity begs you to stay.
Seeing a shark up close and in its natural habitat is a rare experience, but it’s the norm at Bawah Reserve – a pristine eco retreat in Indonesia’s Anambas Archipelago. Located between peninsular Malaysia and the island of Borneo, the remote chain of six islands can only be accessed via amphibious plane from Batam, or a private yacht, if that happens to be your style.
The journey from Singapore takes four hours, give or take, and involves a three-step process, post chauffeur collection from Singapore Changi Airport or your hotel. The first being a ferry ride across the strait to Batam, Indonesia, which is followed by a short drive to Hang Nadim International Airport, then a 70-minute flight north-east. Despite the dot-to-dot logistics, the journey is as seamless as it could be, a resort representative practically holding your hand the entire way.
A hand hold is necessary when, in what feels like the middle of nowhere, the ten-seat de Havilland Twin Otter makes a speedy descent over a cluster of green islands that appear like a mirage. Following a surprisingly silky ocean landing, the pair of barefoot pilots bid a rehearsed farewell as you’re ushered onto a jetty, offered an icy drink (with Earth-friendly straw), and thrust into the hands of the relaxation professionals. It’s a breathtaking arrival, unlike anything you’re likely to experience again, where stress evaporates like jet fuel in the wind.
Within moments of stepping onto Bawah’s blinding white shores your body clock converts to island time. The pace is indulgent and hours can be whiled away with a little or a lot of effort. There are innumerable spots to sit and simply stare into the abyss – a daybed on the beach, a hammock on a deserted sandbar, or your private ocean-facing balcony are all great places to practice – although it would be a shame not to dive into the plentiful water-based activities on offer.
The best way to ease into island life is via a leisurely snorkel at one of the resort’s 12 surrounding reefs, where you’ll come face- to-face with giant bumphead parrotfish, clownfish, eagle rays, and iridescent blue starfish. The underwater world is teeming with sea life as a result of a strict marine conservation zone, meaning there’s no fishing or anchoring allowed in the reserve’s surrounding waters. If you think snorkelling in daylight is for amateurs, request a twilight snorkel with one of Bawah’s affable staff. Apparently the big fish and sharks come out after dark and, if ballsy enough, you can pat them while they sleep.
Peppered along the ocean and into the forest, the resort’s 36 standalone suites – which include impressive three and four- bedroom villas – are generously sized and well-equipped with eco-conscious amenities. Prices start from US$1900 per night for two guests, excluding transfer fee (US$980 per person).
With a ratio of five staff to one guest, every question is met with a smile, genuine enthusiasm and a can-do attitude. Each room is supplied with a WhatsApp-loaded smartphone, providing a direct line to your private butler who responds within seconds. Can we eat breakfast on our balcony? Of course! Can I book a Coconut Dream Scrub at 3pm? Certainly! Where will dinner be served tonight? You’ll be treated to a traditional Indonesian barbecue on the beach!
Bawah’s small but healthy permaculture garden supplies its kitchens with fresh fruit, vegetables, and herbs. There are plenty of coconuts, too, and honey thanks to a newly introduced hive of stingless Trigona bees. Sourcing other ingredients, however, can prove challenging due to the island’s remote location. All things considered, the menus at the resort’s two dining venues – The Boat House restaurant on the beach, and Tree Tops in the canopy – are diverse and generally well executed. As expected, local specialties are a highlight, and more surprisingly, the pizza.
As you might surmise from the name, making the steep ascent to the Tree Tops restaurant for breakfast, or adjacent Jules Verne bar for a sundowner, will take your breath away in more ways than one. But it’s worth it. Your reward being a panoramic vista of the shimmering lagoon and adjacent islands. It’s like watching a living artwork as the tide and light change throughout the day and into the early evening.
Meals are inclusive, alcohol is not. And while the island cellar is both impressive and comprehensive, it comes with a price tag many will struggle to justify; enter a $635 Tolpuddle Pinot Noir. Fortunately, it might be the perfect excuse for a detox – one that is complemented with a daily game of tennis on the immaculate grass court, a pilates, yoga and meditation session in the over- water wellness pavilion, or a hike into the tropical wilderness.
Wholesomeness reaches an all-time high when turtles are involved. The shallow reef that hugs the jetty is a haven for Hawksbills, the most endangered sea turtle in the world. In addition to Bawah’s impressive sustainable practices – you can read all about its floating solar farm, plastic-free policy, and zero-waste program in the informative brochure on the seaplane – turtle conservation is at the core of the resort’s ethos.
Each morning, a specialist team of marine biologists searches the surrounding beaches for just-laid turtle eggs, in a bid to save them from monitor lizards that patrol the resort paths. The rescued eggs are then carefully transported to a lizard-safe sanctuary, which can house hundreds of eggs at a time, where they await their due date. Breeding season occurs from April to September, and with multiple hatchings a month you’d be as unlucky as us to miss one during this time.
Once you’ve ticked a turtle sighting off your bucket list, request a picnic and embark on a kayak around the main island, stopping to eat lunch at Coconut beach: a spotless strip of porcelain sand that could pass as the set for The Beach. If you’re feeling pumped after the hour-long expedition, grab a stand-up paddle board or set sail on a catamaran and explore the surrounding islands. Only one of them, Elang, is off-limits to regular guests. Originally designed as the owner’s sanctuary, the now-private island – and its six villas – must be rented out in its entirety. A serious flex starting at US$18,000 a night.
Bawah’s activities list is extensive, as is the treatment menu at Aura, the resort’s tranquil forest-veiled spa. From traditional Indonesian and Swedish-style massages, to facials, sea- salt scrubs, and manicures, guests are invited to indulge in one treatment per day, included in the price of the stay. The exceptionally calming setting, attention to detail, and flawless treatment execution all indicate how integral Aura is to the success of the resort, and to the enjoyment of guests.
The positive impact that Bawah Reserve has on your mind and body isn’t fully realised until the moment you, very reluctantly, board the seaplane home and watch as the island paradise disappears on the horizon. With salty hair and sandy toes, you spend the next 70 minutes mentally scheduling your return.
The author stayed as a guest of Bawah Reserve for two nights.
If you’ve enjoyed this review of the Bawah Reserve, here are a few more of our favourite travel stories — covering destinations from across Asia:
Aman Kyoto Review: A Stay As Enchanting As It Is Energising
Live Like Royalty At The 11 Best Resorts In Bali
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong Review: A Legend Of Far Eastern Hospitality
